And if This is It, I Had a Ball: A Farewell to Bars in Los Angeles

My last drink at The Varnish - a Greenpoint.

About 7 years ago now, North Hollywood’s Bar One ceased operations after 10 years in business. I had patronized the teensy wine and beer bar since I was a novice craft beer drinker, back when Chimay was considered the height of the art form. Bar One’s closure was as painless as these things can be, widely publicized with enough notice for the faithful to pay our respects, but for the first time it dawned on me - the places I love might not always be here. Since then, I’ve learned that not only can places close, they can also change, go downhill, shift their concept, shut down with no notice, have a devastating fire, go viral for racism or withholding pay. Surprise at the news of a bar closure seems almost cute, something that can only happen to someone who hasn’t lost much yet. 7 years later, I have.

I don’t know if things are changing faster than usual or if I’m just at the right age to notice changes and opine about “back in my day.” LA is where I’m from, so it’s where I’m staying, and maybe being rooted in one spot makes it natural to notice changes over the long term. It does seem like there’s been a wave of restaurant and bar closures that are getting hard to ignore. And why wouldn’t there be. We’re living in a strange time. It’s not as simple as opening back up in May of 2021 and the good times are here again. We emerged into a different world where everything is much more expensive and people are more hostile. Not exactly ideal conditions in an industry that was always difficult. I still miss Studio City’s Bellwether, one of the first places I was bummed to lose due to Covid, but that place was never really anything beyond a neighborhood restaurant that had been there a handful of years. What I’m noticing, and finding more troubling, are the closures of spots I considered successful and established. And with The Varnish shuttering most recently, I feel the need to name and pay tribute to these places, which I’d categorize as either “restaurants with good drinks” or “bars with good food,” that have closed in the last 6-8 months.

Former Cool Spot Mohawk Bend closed with not much notice. I happened to visit with a friend in from Brooklyn who always liked their vegan potato pizza. We couldn’t help noticing that the once very popular place for bad first dates was dead on a Saturday night. It almost became a joke when her boyfriend would order a beer and the waitress would check, let him know they were out of that one, and then he’d ask for another which the waitress would check and report that that one was also out. I think that happened 4 times? Bad sign for a bar with that many beer taps. Then a week later, they made the closure announcement on social media. Not shocking given our recent experience, but it was crazy to consider how far it had fallen past the peak.

The Federal anchored the NoHo arts district for 12 years and my personal story for about as long - I went the first month they were open, and the last. A hundred times in between for dinner, brunch, happy hour, debrief cocktails after seeing a movie at the Laemmle (which, by the way, that Laemmle theater is also closing). It was a lifeline during the pandemic with to-go Painkillers and a parking lot patio, and they had some truly memorable food items. Something they called Dirty Chips introduced me to Fresno chiles, an ingredient I’m always happy to see in a guacamole or hamachi crudo. 

Mezcalero downtown had a fantastic happy hour. I don’t really have any notable memories of going there, but their guacamole was good.

At Spring Street Bar, you could get really excellent sandwiches and craft beer. In the mid-10s, Phantogram had played at the free Grand Park 4th of July celebration, and my feet were so sore walking in cheap red Target flats up Spring, but I was replenished by the space and a sandwich with a bag of Zapps. The sandwiches didn’t come back after Covid, and when I visited this past New Years Eve it was basically a nondescript bar with no character or special sauce. You used to be able to stay on the same block of Spring Street and drink at multiple great bars without even crossing the street.

Over on Broadway, Bernadette’s was masculine but non-threatening, with decor (Garfield phone, The Noid figurine) that actually felt like someone’s cozy lived-in basement, not like a cheesy TGI Friday’s affectation. The bartenders played music you’d heard before and you could order loaded tots from Buddy’s next door for $4. Buddy’s closed first, then Bernadettes, and now the concept in the former Bernadette’s space is a wine bar that features tinned fish. And next door to that, there was Clacson, an aperitivo spot that had a truly excellent Italian sandwich shop up front called E. Stretto. Man, I was sad to lose that prosciutto sandwich. Clacson became Chatterbox and then The Grayson, and Stretto has become a torta shop, so it isn’t all bad. I haven’t tried it yet, but I will.

It was so good in downtown Los Angeles for so long. A new bar was always opening. Just a few years later, you think about places and realize - I haven’t been there since Covid. You’ll remember some spot you ducked into once or twice when it was hot outside. It was New Orleans themed? Nice bartenders. You’ll look up if it’s still open and of course, it isn’t. The new hotel that took over the former Ace Hotel isn’t even opening up their ground floor restaurant. What a waste. 

Homebound Brew House opened in a renovated former Harvey House restaurant in Union Station. It’s not that the food was that great, but a. They had good game day specials, making it a perfect spot to pregame before getting on the shuttle to Dodger Stadium, and b. The space was absolutely beautiful, timeless art deco with huge windows giving it the appearance of filtered sunlight. They (or the bar group) spent a lot of time and money restoring the space. Now Union Station is going to use it for private events, which is some bullshit if you ask me. I hate the idea of that historic space being inaccessible to the public outside of paying multi tens of thousands of dollars.

Stout Burger shut down all their locations so abruptly we were actually on our way to one when we thought to look up the holiday weekend hours and were like, uh, Google says Permanently Closed. We ended up eating a disappointing burger at Laurel Tavern while eavesdropping on a guy yammering vaguely fascist talking points at his date. Stout was my 2nd or 3rd favorite burger, outside Fathers Office, which is still kickin’ but come to think of it the Arts District location has been emptier than usual recently.

I only went to Faith and Flower a couple of times, but my BFF and I had one of the top 10 nights of our lives there in 2018 before the Drake show at Staples. Make no mistake, I’m Team Kendrick, but goddamn that show was a highlight of my concertgoing life - the energy, the production value, the year of God’s Plan, Kiki do you love me, bringing out LeBron riiiiight post signing with the Lakers and Travis Scott to do Sicko Mode. It’s a 2018 period piece, he was the zeitgeist. I gave my friend a long necklace to borrow, and a rich-looking woman complimented her on it. She had several milk punches. Faith and Flower didn’t last long into COVID, Drake is, well, Drake, and my friend took a job in Austin. Bummers all around.

I haven’t been back to Jumbo’s Clown Room or Star Garden. Truthfully, Star Garden was always a bit embarrassing but could be a good time, then shitty union-busting management made it cost-prohibitive to patronize anymore. All power to the dancers.

The phrase “end of an era” is thrown around but legitimately worth using when it comes to The Varnish shutting down. An era in LA, and a pioneer of sorts. In 2009, who had heard of a SPEAKEASY in the back of a restaurant? A Bartender’s Choice cocktail, where maybe you specify a spirit and general preference but the drink is a surprise? Cocktails made by foxy bartenders wearing suspenders and old timey arm bands? It’s so ubiquitous it became a cliché, but those are the trends they helped usher in. The drinks were always very good. Nothing had better happen to Cole’s. I can’t keep losing sandwiches in this town.

Look - people waxing nostalgic can be obnoxious, and whining about restaurants and bars closing seems particularly tone-deaf when I’m just a consumer - employees and staff are far more impacted by closures, obviously. No one has a right to places they love staying open forever in what is, by all accounts, an extraordinarily difficult time to be operating a restaurant. You could even argue that we’re still spoiled as hell with plenty of quality places remaining. But in that sense, the vastness and density of Los Angeles might actually work against the individual restaurant. I go out frequently, but not usually to the same place, week after week. You just can’t, in a place with so much to offer.

The older I’ve gotten, the more I’ve tried to embrace the notion that endings make space for something new to begin. The pandemic was poisonous to the restaurant industry, but some places managed to open, thrive, and even expand. Prime Pizza, Hanks Bagels, For the Win, Home State, Danny Boy, Ggiata, surely more that aren’t coming to mind now, all managed to open second or additional locations, which is amazing. And hey - stuff opens. Different concepts emerge in the same address, probably several times over in the life of a commercial restaurant space. The dearly departed Bar One became Mirabelle Wine Bar, which doesn’t have the former’s punk ethos but does have excellent lighting. This cycle has been happening long before I got here, and will happen long after I’m gone. I know that. I’m still allowed to lament that things change, because what is getting older if not lamenting that things change, and I can still tip my glass to what was there before while embracing the Here and Now (which, by the way, is the name of another downtown bar that closed, and I’ll miss their wintery Christmas theming this holiday season). But I remain focused on what’s here when there’s still so much to try. I haven’t tried it yet, but I will.

A Weekend in Joshua Tree // May 2022

Two LA natives in their late 30s, who had been to Coachella multiple times in their youth, had never been to Joshua Tree? Yup.

And for one of them specifically, it was their first time in any National Park, in California or beyond? Also yes.

For someone who can lean into California hippie/energy/crystals/woo ideals, both these things are surprising. Particularly the fact that my family growing up was relatively outdoorsy - camping, and driving to see family in the Bay Area, was pretty much the only vacations we went on, so I’m not sure why National Parks never managed to make their way onto our destination lists. (We covered a lot of the state parks, though, so there’s that.) As I got older and had the funds to travel on my own, my priorities were the big cities. I feel alive in the city, walking around with music in my headphones and feeling the energy of being around people, stopping into bars and visiting museums and urban parks. Which, fair - as a youngster, perhaps New Orleans and Portland hold more intrigue than Sequoia National Park.

But the other thing is that, well… I had certain ideas about myself and what I could/couldn’t do. I’ve covered some of this ground before - I didn’t believe myself to be an outdoorsy person, so I didn’t prioritize “outdoor” activities and destinations, and it became a self-reinforcing concept. I like to walk and swim, but heavy duty hiking, rock climbing, or trail running never sounded appealing. I’m slowly realizing that there are ways to engage with the great outdoors on your own terms, where you can sample it without getting sunburned or dehydrated. So while the fact that I made it to this age without stepping foot in a National Park, kinda makes me feel some type of way… I’m more focused on how I can get to another one again.

This Joshua Tree trip was short but packed in a lot of amazing activities:

Pappy and Harriet’s

Pappy’s has been a bucket list item since I first heard about Pappy’s, and I’m glad to say that the Big Thief show didn’t disappoint. For the uninitiated, Pappy and Harriet’s is a BBQ restaurant/roadhouse and concert venue who have a decent-size outdoor stage to watch bands perform in an Old West setting. Big Thief was a perfect band to see there, and I left with a great appreciation for the band.

The Integratron

I’ve been to a few sound baths, which is basically like a sound healing meditation session. The one at the Integratron, an acoustically perfect domed venue, had the sound vibrations penetrating deeper than I’ve ever experienced. Seriously, you can feel the sound vibrating through your whole body. I was super relaxed for the rest of the day and am probably still feeling the benefits days later.

Joshua Tree National Park

Obviously! With a 7-day pass only being $30 per car, this is an obvious and affordable must-do and we did a ton of research to figure out the best activities to do in a short about of time. The must-sees we landed on:

  • Barker Dam Trail - A 1-mile loop to see the now-dry remnants of a dam. Some parts were a little more uneven terrain than I was expecting, but overall it was easy. There are also petroglyphs (drawings on rocks) by an as-yet-unidentified Native tribe that were cool to see. We also saw a rattlesnake.

  • Skull Rock - Easy to pull over and see this one. It kinda looks like a skull.

  • Cholla Cactus Garden - The southernmost destination, we felt like we were driving endlessly and eventually came upon the garden, which was totally worth it. The Cholla Cacti appear out of nowhere and are breathtaking, especially at golden hour. More than worth the drive.

We got plenty of intel about the park using a narration app. It’s a pretty incredible place between the Joshua trees (they are so big!), rock formations, and wildlife.

Food, Drink, and Etc.

  • La Copine was really good. Probably the best restaurant in JT, so make sure to make a reservation.

  • Tiny Pony was a much-needed bar/late night eats spot with a cute patio.

  • JT Country Kitchen was a tiny small-town diner with the absolute nicest, quickest servers and shockingly great food. My breakfast burrito was so big that I didn’t need lunch or dinner - I should clarify, it was at like 11am.

  • Our Airbnb, Joshua Tree del Sol, was awesome. (No, we didn’t know the listing was that type of place with an IG presence when we booked.) It had a gorgeous backyard with a hot tub, hammock, and coolest of all… an RV for photo opps. We didn’t spend a ton of time at the Airbnb but made sure to have a couple of hours enjoying the backyard, under what we later learned was the super flower blood moon.

Here, have some pictures…

Pappy and Harriet’s

Tucker Zimmerman sang a song about Santa Rosa

Big Thief

Joshua Tree

Skull Rock

Cholla Cactus Garden

The Airbnb’s backyard

Very Happy Hour

Spud Extraterrestrial

Sound Bath

Come in and browse the stupidest (in a good way) bumper sticker collection ever

Dry January "Driary"

For the first time ever, my husband and I attempted and successfully completed Dry January. I had never been into the idea of doing Dry January, mostly because I already give up non-essential spending in January and the idea of not spending money AND not drinking was unappealing. However, in the 2nd pandemic-era January I felt like giving up drinking was an easier sell than not spending, and it totally was.

The key was that we prepared well. We knew that we personally were more likely to struggle with not being able to drink beer, so we fortified with non-alcoholic beer (which actually wasn’t bad! More on that below) as well as other drinks, some of which approximated the beer-drinking experience and some of which didn’t. And it was mostly fine. Obviously, there were no brewery trips or happy hours or other situations that would have been difficult to not indulge.

Here are my real-time observations on the experience, takeaways at the end.

Jan 2

I hate when January has 5 weekends… 5 weekends instead of 4 to do whatever your January “good habit” is (usually related to spending, this year it’s not drinking).

We went to Soft Spirits and got some shit. The “bourbon” was so bad and then we read the back and apparently they say to mix *that* with bourbon. Lol. We can try on Feb 1. Then we split this Amaro club soda thing, it wasn’t amazing but was kinda like a light cocktail so that was cool.

I mostly don’t drink enough to feel effects- maybe on the occasional Sunday. What I feel like might be a problem is the lack of craft beer at home and the inability to go to breweries. Also not being able to order a cocktail at restaurants. What is the appeal of a beach day without some beers, or dinner without a fancy drink, or a get together without alcohol? What is it like to have a DAY and you can’t unwind with wine or beer? I want to stay perfect here, because you don’t NEED alcohol the way you need to spend money. I’d always slip up during no spend January, but it was fine. I might be harder on myself if I slip up this time. 29 days to go!

Part of the Soft Spirits haul.

Jan 3

Athletic Brewing N/A hazy was pretty damn good. Split the can- 6oz of non alcoholic beer, watch out!

Jan 5

Pamplemousse La Croix- actually good?!?

Jan 6

My Bravus Oatmeal Stout - so bad. Edward’s De La Calle Tepache was really good. Pineapple and cinnamon.

Jan 8

Club Soda and bitters kinda tastes like a cocktail. I had two. My brain is so programmed to be like “no you can’t have more than one drink!!!” But of course if there is no alcohol- you can. I could kinda fw this drink for normal times.

Jan 11

Alcohol free Sauvignon blanc is something you’d never drink in normal times but tastes good enough when you can’t drink.

This is now the longest I’ve gone without booze (few years back I was on antibiotics for 10 days and didn’t drink). One of the reasons I’m doing this is to examine my relationship with alcohol. I’ve moved past doing a lot of social drinking, often to excess. But for my whole adult life, alcohol has been involved, even to a small degree. The pandemic didn’t help- we never used to have craft beer in the house and then that became the only way we could support our local beer shop, plus there was that whole “existential angst that there’s a deadly pandemic and our old way of life is gone forever” thing. I never drank more than one. Two on Saturdays. But when you add it up every day…

Jan 16

Am I learning anything? No. Kinda. I’m not craving booze in a bodily sense but mentally I’m missing it. It doesn’t help that the Omicron surge is making the idea of going out to dinner unappealing, so it feels kinda like early pando days where all we’re doing is walking and getting takeout/delivery, only now with the added bonus of not drinking (and admittedly, less existential panic being boosted). Am I more present or clear? No. I just have one less little joy to make life better. You hear about some people cutting out drinking and never missing it. I can’t imagine that being me. Who knows though.

In my 20s, my baseline was way higher than it is now. If I was drinking, it was three drinks on a weeknight, five on a weekend, more for a celebration, and I only faced consequences if I was going hard, and even the consequences weren’t that bad. Remember when you’d just puke once, take an Advil, have some fast food and be straight? But your body’s ability to do that diminishes as you get older, so I got good at self-regulating. People talk about 2-day hangovers once you turn 30- I have never experienced that, but my last hangover was at 32 after going too hard at a wedding. I was laid out all day. I respect that the rules have changed. I haven’t consumed near enough to become “drunk” in years - though of course, a buzz from some high-ABV beers happens. So it’s not necessarily about the physical effects anymore.

It’s more that… I enjoy drinking! Trying new breweries, wine tasting, $18 cocktails, having a respectable home bar, having Mexican food with huge-ass margaritas, shot and beer combos at concerts, getting a beer at the airport. What is life without these things? What is my perception of myself that I need these things, and what am I missing when I can’t partake? What does it mean that my idea of a good life includes certain class signifiers like wine tasting, $$ beers, $70 worth of drinks? I’m not trying to find answers here, and of course alcohol is so baked into our culture that it’s hard to examine personal behavior outside of that context. But I am examining it.

Jan 18

I accidentally came across something that described an Old Fashioned so seductively that I had to stop reading.

I do think my skin looks better! But I also started slugging recently so maybe it’s that.

I’m obviously not at the end yet but I will say no matter what - this is permanently changing my relationship to alcohol the same way my first no-spend January in 2014 permanently changed my relationship to money. Even if it doesn’t end up perfect, my eyes are now opened to the possibilities for making permanent changes (NOT to this degree) and actually having some strategies in place to do so.

Jan 21

Well, now I’m at the point where I’m not going to break the streak barring extreme circumstances.

Even if all this accomplishes is breaking the habit for a time, it’s still a reset. It’s still going to recalibrate my drinking habits. We initially said that “when the pandemic is over” we would go back to only drinking on weekends, but it’s clear we need to go ahead and adopt that philosophy now. The idea of going 4 days won’t seem crazy now that I know I can do a whole month.

It is very much like a no-spend January. Is it fun to not do shit? Go a month without restaurants, shopping, bars? No, it’s boring. But when I did it, it was hella satisfying to see my bank account, or to get paid and feel like the money was really mine. It’s that whole short-term sacrifices for long-term payoff thing, which I’ve never been great at tbh. Only the drinking is being sacrificed for physical health and a more mindful approach in the future.

Jan 23

I have gone 4 weekends without drinking!

Is this egocentric? I’m not the first person to do Dry January. Journaling is a good way to sort our feelings.

Jan 25

Good (approximating alcohol)

  • Athletic Brewing’s IPA and hazy IPA tasted surprisingly like the real thing

  • Curious No. 6 - like a painkiller/piña colada and very tasty

  • Fake cocktails like Alta club soda and amaro, and Ginish and Tonic. Also club soda and bitters. Not things that would normally be my first choice, but desperate times.

Good (not approximating alcohol)

  • Pamplemousse LaCroix

  • De La Calle Tepache - a fermented pineapple drink originating from Jalisco, Mexico, that I can hazily recall drinking our first time in Puerto Vallarta. It comes in a lot of different flavors - pineapple, tamarind, mango chile. Yum!

  • Health-Ade Passionfruit Kombucha - I’d never had booch before? I like it a lot.

  • HopLark Hop Tea

  • Various Trader Joe’s sparkling juices (as always)

Not good

  • Bravus Brewing Company - everything we tried completely sucked. Athletic Brewing’s offerings were way better

  • Fake whiskey - tastes kinda like smoky apple cider vinegar. Some company will eventually figure out how to replicate alcohol-free spirits that actually taste like the real thing, but the technology isn’t there now. At least not with this!

  • Curious No. 2 - they say it’s a margarita mixed with Dark and Stormy. It’s not good.

FEB 1!!!!!

We did it! We went all of January without a drop of the sauce! And yes I do feel a real sense of accomplishment here.

Takeaways:

  • I am really proud of myself for sticking to it for the whole month with absolutely no bending and really no desire to. It was effort, but not a struggle. I’m pleasantly surprised at how I never once felt like my day would be made better by a drink or that I deserved one.

  • Our main goal was to put a break in the consumption and stop the pattern of drinking daily we’d gotten into during the pandemic (and probably before). We have succeeded. I’d even go so far as to say that we’re reprogrammed, at least for right now. We wanted to stop drinking on weekdays, and Feb 1 was a Tuesday, so we were literally like “What if we… waited until Friday to break the streak?” Ultimately, we decided not to, since it’s not “Dry Jan-plus-3-days-uary” and we weren’t gonna get extra credit for waiting. So we did have an Old Fashioned, and it was amazing. But there are already little changes we’re making, like making plans to go to a brewery but NOT buy a growler for consumption during the week. Progress.

  • Seriously, Athletic Brewing’s N/A beer is really good. It’s going to become a staple.

  • I highly recommend buying a wall-mounted can crusher. Somehow during all of this we actually went through way more cans than normal, probably because we were crushing 2 LaCroix or whatever. Can crushers not only take up way less space in the recycling, but they are also fun as hell. So regardless of whether you do Dry January, permanently or temporarily change your drinking habits, or don’t - you should definitely buy one.

Central Coast Road Trip // Fall 2021

Well… been a while!

I might have things to catch up on. The insanity of our modern times demands reflection, and I’ve been mostly reflecting privately. But for now, I’ve been living a very similar story to other people my age/class/profession. WFH since March 2020. An extremely careful year spent getting deliveries and taking walks in masks. Adjustments made such as drive-ins, patio hangs, parking lots turned into dining rooms, beach and park days. Lysol. Animal Crossing. Watching Dodger games in a makeshift beer garden, the high five with a stranger after the World Series win being the only time I touched anyone other than my husband for over a year. Partying like hell on November 7. A vaccine and its promise. And a slow return to, if not normalcy, more of the things we missed in 2020. There’s obviously a lot more here, but that’s the short version.

During all this, we hadn’t traveled too far afield - San Diego, Palm Springs twice, and Santa Barbara for my birthday weekend. Easy driving trips, Airbnbs, outdoor dining. We’ve made some other travel plans for more large-scale trips (on planes!), and in the meantime I had a few Central Coast destinations on my wishlist for 2021. I grew up going to the Bay Area and Monterey, but I hadn’t been on the Monterey Peninsula for probably 20 years and felt like it would be great to plan a trip around there and the other destinations I wanted to check out.

It had been years since I planned a proper roadtrip and this one had a lot fewer details, but it’s a unique style of travel that involves more planning than most trips. Figuring out an itinerary and packing a little lighter, moving on from lodgings quickly, and generally just not having that much time in any given location. I wished we could have stayed longer everywhere, and as much as we packed in, there were still things we missed. But a road trip is meant to be a sampler platter, not an entree.

Day 1: Santa Cruz

The whole trip was conceptualized around visiting a brewery whose beers we love, Humble Sea. In the pandemic, we’d come to do regular hauls at our local bottle shop, Hop Merchants, and we noticed Humble Sea’s hazy IPAs were consistently excellent. We offhandedly talked about going up to their Santa Cruz outpost, which then turned into “Well, why couldn’t we actually do this?” It’s about a 5-hour drive to Santa Cruz if you leave in the morning, not the most pleasant drive but being there by lunchtime was extremely satisfying. We enjoyed a couple of brews on their spacious patio, taking our time and getting some pizza from a nearby shop. We also bought some cans to bring home. Then we headed to Natural Bridges State Beach ($10 day use parking or free street parking), a small beach with a natural arch rock formation - the first of many rock formations we saw in the region. Then, we took a slow drive down the coast to the boardwalk, stopping at a lighthouse which turned out to be a museum of surfing. All the rides were closed at the boardwalk, but it was fine. We saw seals on the pier.

We didn’t want to be constantly packing up and moving accommodations, so we picked a couple of Airbnbs as home bases to stay at for a couple of days each. The first was a guest house of a mid century modern Redwood near Pebble Beach, and honestly, the Monterey Peninsula isn’t exactly rife with Airbnb options. Despite splurging on the Airbnbs, we barely spent time in either one. Oh well!

After heading to downtown Pacific Grove, we sought out somewhere to watch the wildcard NLCS game (Dodgers v Cards). Part of the appeal of Monterey over, say, Sedona, was that COVID sensibilities would be similar to Los Angeles, and we’ve been way more comfortable sticking with outdoor dining. Somehow, we happened upon a sports bar with an outdoor patio and TV, with sound on! And even better, the Dodgers won.


Day 2: Big Sur/Monterey

This was my favorite day of the trip and we packed in so much. Big Sur pulls you in from the drive, when rounding every corner makes you gasp, and even though it’s at least 45 minutes from Monterey it feels like part of the journey. We did:

  • Pfeiffer Beach ($12 parking) - So the first thing we noticed about planning stuff to do in Big Sur was that everything is named after Julia Pfeiffer. Kind of confusing when you’re planning a trip, but after sifting through many badly-written/sometimes incorrect reviews on Yelp and Google, I managed to piece together what the differences were. Pfeiffer Beach is, unsurprisingly, a beach which had somehow slipped past my family’s awareness growing up - probably because of the additional parking fee. Set back a couple of miles on a one-lane dirt road, the semi-treacherous drive was worth it for the end result of arch rock formations, driftwood, a secluded feel, and silvery-purple sand. It wasn’t a place I’d spend hours and hours but it was lovely and if you were so inclined, you could have a pleasant picnic or chilly beach day there, perhaps with a kite.

  • Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park ($10 for a State Park day parking pass) - This is the Big Sur State Park and if you can only do one thing, it’s this. I’d been as a kid and remembered the redwoods and the creeks. You could spend hours here and while we didn’t have that kind of time, I definitely put on my water socks and got knee-deep into the freezing cold stream. We walked and hiked around, dipped our toes into the water, saw birds, and wished for binoculars. If we’d had more time maybe we would have gone to the swimming hole. Next time!

  • Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park/McWay Falls ($10 for a State Park day parking pass) - Told ya everything was named after Pfeiffer! Confusingly, this is a state park a little further south which mainly functions as a way to see a waterfall that falls directly on the beach. A gorgeous scene to be sure, but not necessarily worth a special trip if time is tight.

  • Nepenthe - A very beautiful, very famous restaurant. Possibly a tourist trap, definitely one of the only options, probably still worth experiencing at least once. Service was quick and friendly (they want to churn you through, I reckon) and the food was pretty good, for prices that seem insane but in that setting you just shrug and sign the check instead of thinking about how their burger costs more than the one at Father’s Office. We also enjoyed a terrible Mai Tai. And I do mean enjoyed.

  • Drive-bys of the Henry Miller Library (new life goal is to see a show here) and the Bixby Canyon Bridge, all with a region-specific soundtrack.

The long day in Big Sur tired us out, but we still managed to see a few key spots on the 17 Mile Drive before scooting back to Pacific Grove and seeing Lover’s Point, a spot I remembered from our visits there as a kid. We grabbed dinner at a brewery in a converted train station and got some really good cocktails elsewhere before heading back.

Day 3: Paso Robles

Somehow, we’d never been to Paso - if we feel like visiting a wine region and can’t get to Napa, we have Temecula and the Santa Ynez Valley a lot closer. Alas, here we experienced one of the sad pitfalls of a road trip, which is that sometimes you just blow through town and don’t have much time to really explore. We got on the road from Monterey early enough to get lunch at Tin City, which is a multi-building industrial complex of breweries, wineries, and restaurants. We hit BarrelHouse Brewing and the namesake Tin City cidery and wished we could have had much more time there, since there was so much to see (much like a more expansive Los Olivos). We had a tasting at Sculpterra which was very nice, and then got to explore the grounds and taste grapes straight off the vine.

Nearing sundown, we headed to Sensorio, a light exhibit in the rolling hills. I was poorly attired for the wind and for some reason we’d spent extra for early admission, which was mostly pointless as the lights didn’t start turning on until later. Nonetheless, once they did start turning on it was a breathtaking scene that had my photos looking like something from someone far more technically skilled than I am. Once we’d taken enough pictures, we headed to dinner in downtown Paso Robles and still had to drive to our next Airbnb 30 minutes away. It was an Airbnb Plus, which meant there were scones.

Day 4: Morro Bay/SLO

In the morning’s light, the Airbnb’s private patio was a nice place to have a coffee and breakfast. We had a slow morning and eventually made our way to the Madonna Inn, basically just to take a few pictures. After that, we headed to Morro Rock, another place I’d never once visited! We saw otters in the bay, explored around the rock, and hung out on the beach where we got playfully chided by Giants fans (we were 1 game into the NLDS). Then we explored the wetlands of Morro Bay State Park and went back into the main drag to grab late lunch and a beer.

By sheer coincidence, some of my extended family happened to be visiting the area at the same time, so we headed over to their rental to caravan to Montaña de Oro State Park. With bluffs, steep cliffs, chaparral, and tide pools, it was such a lovely scene to catch up with my cousins and their kiddos. We also saw a raccoon.

At night, we had probably the nicest dinner of the trip at Granada Bistro. Great drinks. We thought about trying to go to a bar but it was a Saturday night in a college town, so we took a slow walk back and only got a little bit lost.

Final Day: Pismo & the Slow Drive Home

Not a ton to say about this day - we packed up and got breakfast sandwiches at Beachin’ Biscuits. There was a hell of a wait even with an online order, and with good reason - these breakfast sandwiches were AMAZING. We took them over to the beach to eat, then walked on the pier. There’s a famous place called Old Town Cinnamon Rolls which we really wanted to try, but truly didn’t have the stomach space.

We then slowly made our way south, and decided to stop in Los Olivos and enjoy the grassy patio at Figueroa Mountain. Then we ambled down the 101 to Ventura and stopped at the In-N-Out right off the freeway, and finally got home at a reasonable hour.

Stray Observations

  • Our refrain of the trip was “We’re outdoorsy!” Traditionally, we’ve been more into cities - taking transit, trying as many bars and restaurants as possible, visiting museums and culturally enduring locations . With COVID, the idea of having one of those old-fashioned nights somewhere unfamiliar seems unappealing, unless we’ve done some heavy-duty planning, so shifting to locations where it’s easy to be outside in your own space is, for the moment, the way to go. Spending a day in athleisure and showing up to a restaurant (for lunch) that way? Not my typical style. But I guess this is just the domain of us outdoorsy types, baby.

  • My IG likes correlated to my enjoyment of each location: Big Sur > Santa Cruz > Paso > SLO > Monterey

  • Despite the whirlwind, I don’t think this was too much to fit into the time frame. We covered a lot of ground and got some ideas for what to spend more time exploring next. I think a proper Paso Robles trip is probably in order!

2019

Every year I try to write recaps and never quite finish them. And if I do, I don’t post them. I’ve never been interested in sharing that much with other people. This year feels a little different. I was unemployed for a lot of the year as a result of a layoff, and had a lot of internal shifts that seem worth documenting. These facts aren’t obviously connected, but they are connected, because everything is.

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To answer the question of most interest, I did find another job. As I’ve said to a lot of people, even in the first week of working, it felt like I’d been there for months. I gelled with the team quickly. It was an easy transition. And it was like the months of toiling in unemployment were a distant memory.

However… everything that follows is predicated on my privilege. If you trace it back, you can count many ways I’ve been dealt a privileged hand, starting with being born white and American, to getting my first job at the company where my dad worked. Yeah, I remember hearing that I was the most qualified for that job, but my dad’s long tenured status there surely helped me get my foot in the door, which then set me up for the following career path and connections made there. One of those connections led me to my former job, and even when giving me the boot, the company still treated me with great humanity. Generous severance, my full bonus, and six months paid COBRA for me and my spouse.

I’ve always been pretty good with money, largely rooted in anxiety. Before I moved out of my parent’s house, my mom advised me to save $5,000. I don’t know where I would be if I had not heeded the advice (mostly - I “only” saved $4,000). I wanted to make sure I had a cushion, and I remembered a line from Nickel and Dimed: “starting conditions determine everything.” My paycheck wasn’t much, but my rent was minimal (five roommates helps here) and I had enough to do all the little things I wanted to do. I barely cooked, I ate Trader Joes meals. My favorite restaurant was California Pizza Kitchen. I bought a lot of shit secondhand for fun and because I liked a bargain. My biggest splurge was used records at Amoeba for like, $40. It was fine. If I had a $500 car repair, I could handle it. I would complain and feel anxious until I built my funds back up, but I could handle it. I didn’t get a credit card until age 26. I was a Suze Orman disciple, and she advocates for an 8-month emergency fund in liquid. This is the attitude that I developed about money when I first had to care about money, and one I still carry.

So having set the stage - I know my experience isn’t the norm, if there even is a norm. I know there are people for whom layoffs spell catastrophe. I know that not everyone can build a savings account or emergency fund to weather things like this. But for me, even with the layoff… with severance, unemployment checks, healthcare coverage for 6 months, and a decent pile of money, not to mention other assets like access to a career coach, an impressive resume and good interview chops… I knew I would be ok financially. There are plenty of people you should feel sorry for under late capitalism, but I’m not one.

Nonetheless. Just because I wasn’t worried about money and knew my survival wasn’t at stake didn’t mean there weren’t incredibly painful moments. There were dark nights of the soul, tears, anxiety, rejection, and something approaching heartbreak on at least one occasion. There were also sunny days, moments of lightness and peace, lessons, revelations, great memories and experiences, and basking in the downtime. It’s hard to talk about the year as universally good or bad because in truth, it was so much of both. But the great thing is, I don’t need to tell a tidy narrative to speak truth. So let’s start with the part that most people understand readily, the job stuff.

Job Loss/Searching/Gain

I’d been laid off once before, and it was perfect. In the cosmic timing of my life, I’d just gotten engaged two days before, and although I had some immediate anxiety about finding a new job, I knew that I’d been underpaid for years and anywhere else I went would be better. When I easily found another job a couple months later, I was grateful for the $15,000 pay bump to help me afford a wedding. This time was not like that at all, though I did notice that they happened on nearly the same day, years apart.

This time around I felt a marked sense of isolation. People are always sympathetic and offer assistance, but it comes off less like a direct offer for help and more like saying “let me know what I can do” to put the burden back on you. When people had direct offers, such as making an introduction or actually looking at my resume, I noticed and appreciated that (regardless of what the outcome was). I didn’t need money, so I wasn’t about to ask for that. I wasn’t desperate and didn’t apply to every job I saw, but full stop - it takes a lot of time and effort to find a job. The daily rounds of Indeed, Ziprecruiter, Linkedin (I stopped with LinkedIn after it got too painful to see everyone else’s professional milestones and accomplishments). Constant emails, messages from recruiters that were mostly garbage, and a stunning array of false starts. Over the months, job hunting netted me a number of experiences ranging from good to WTF.

The good:

At the very beginning, I wrote a list of 20 places I wanted to work. I got interviews at four of them!

The best interview experience was with one of those places, a prestigious LA museum. I had applied on a lark for a Community Manager position, which I had no business applying to, but I got an interview anyway. I had a great conversation where I connected with the hiring manager. I didn’t move beyond the first round, but he wrote me a rejection email that was so sincere and pointed out my strengths, it was just that I didn’t have the appropriate CM experience (which was accurate). A rejection that still boosts your confidence is a rare thing.

I applied for a job just for fun. It was a remote position with the company I use for my budgeting software, and part of the application was creating a 1-minute video explaining how to use the software. I was pretty confident that I wasn’t going to get an interview so I took the approach of making something just for my amusement, and I laughed my ass off filming and editing the video just as a creative exercise.

The odd:

So many weird startups advertise on Indeed. “You’d be our first/only marketing hire” was something I heard a lot. My strategy is to see everything through, so I’d chirp some response like “Great, I would love to work at a startup!” even though it wasn’t true. In one of the weirder experiences, the interviewer appeared to be on coke, said I’d been unemployed too long, and complimented my foot tattoo at the end. He also had federal fraud charges.

Making you do work as part of your interview is a normal thing now - not for every job, but some. There was one where I had to design an email campaign and social media post. Another one, where I actually did get an offer (more on that in a minute) had me come in for three hours and do a presentation.

The owner of a creative agency asked me my zodiac sign. I like astrology, but it felt weird. Her energy also exhausted me. I was shocked when she moved me forward to come in and meet the team. I met them, but I guess I didn’t convey enough enthusiasm because they didn’t ever contact me again. It’s fine.

The painful:

Many times, I likened job hunting to dating - most of the time, after some initial interest, a date/interview is pleasant but not worth moving forward. Sometimes though, it goes well, you have a positive feeling about the potential… and then nothing. They ghost you. Or you find out they’re crazy. My most painful time getting ghosted was at an agency in Burbank. I had an incredible interview. They loved my answers, said I had great energy. I walked out of there feeling sure I would move forward. Two weeks later, I got a boilerplate rejection via email. I hadn’t put all my eggs in that basket or anything, but it was surprising and it stung more than other rejections.

The most hands down upsetting experience was having a job offer rescinded because I’d dared to ask if they had flexibility in the salary offer. I did a long in-person (the aforementioned three-hour presentation) and felt good about it. I hadn’t heard back after a couple of weeks, so I was steamed that they’d had me do all that work if I wasn’t a real candidate. However, they offered me the job eventually and I was in no position to decline. When I inquired about salary, they said there was no flexibility, so I asked if I could take the weekend to think about it. On Sunday morning I woke up to an email stating that they were ending negotiations because I obviously wouldn’t be happy with the salary. As much as I objectively knew that that was an unprofessional move, I was in such immense pain. I didn’t necessarily need to work there, and in fact, all my new skills learned in therapy were teaching me to pay attention to the reaction my body was having - tightness in my chest, a sick feeling - when I thought about taking this job. My body knew it was a bad idea. But I wanted my job search to be over. You have to understand the toll that long-term unemployment takes on you. It can have you questioning your worth and your value as a person (though a lot of my work this year centered around unmapping my personal value from external factors, especially ones based on capitalism - more on that later). The anxiety of uncertainty, the boredom of every day without a place to go, the financial stress. Yeah, I had the money. Don’t cry too hard for me. But - another lesson I learned in therapy - all pain is valid. All trauma counts. Our journeys are ours alone, and how yours stacks up to another’s journey is irrelevant. No matter how much money you have, if you are searching for a job for that long and aren’t getting offers, you feel defeated and rejected.

Anyway, that day was extremely hard, but when I shared with people what had happened, the phrase “dodged a bullet” came up. As much as it hurt, I knew that to be true as well.

The overall effects:

I no longer feel nervous about interviews or phone screens. I can connect with anyone. I’d rather be somewhere stable with benefits, but I can appreciate the “game” of job hunting. I was rusty and complacent before and now understand the value of staying ready. And I have faith in my background - the expertise I have earned through the variety of work projects I’ve had. I know it’s impressive.

What I did with my time

I kept a list going of everything I did with myself - all the binge watches, messageboard rabbit holes, and internet drama I stalked to occupy myself. And there was plenty of that - I lost days to devouring Bachelor Reddit content - but for the first time in a while, I was able to just… be.

I marked my days through the simplest of tasks - waking up, taking my dog’s bed and water dish out to the living room, putting on socks. Noon is when I take out the dog, feed him, and feed myself. Around 5:30, I take the dog out again and meet my husband outside. Obviously there were plenty of interviews, phone calls, and job applications. In between that, though - I had time.

I went to Grand Park the Friday of the UTLA teacher’s strike in January to support the teachers. I watched every Women’s World Cup game in bars with my bff, a teacher off for the summer. I hung out with people who were SAHMs, educators, or had untraditional schedules, to get lunch or walk at Lake Balboa. I went to 10 therapy sessions (more on this in a minute) and six iron infusions. I went to the eye doctor and got my first-ever pair of glasses. I went to dental and medical checkups. I took care of my dog/plants/car. I met my mom for happy hour and didn’t protest when she paid the entire check. I did so many dishes. I lit candles. I went to the grocery store on my own. I got a professional tarot reading from someone who told me I should be a social worker. I drove my friend to the airport on a random Monday because he knew I was around, and I was like “eh, why not.” I went to Santa Barbara a couple of times and Ventura when my friend was house-sitting at an apartment one block from the beach. I went to the high desert with my parents to see the historic poppy superbloom on a Tuesday. I took drives down PCH.  I read a lot and wrote even more.

My husband and I continued our weekend adventures. If this was a normal year, I would spend this recap telling you about them. We got free admission to a number of really great food/drink events. We went to Vegas for my birthday, San Diego, and Boston. We went to Dodger games and Clipper games and amazing concerts (Bon Iver at the Forum, Vampire Weekend at the Bowl, Better Oblivion Community Center at the Wiltern). We ate at nice restaurants and took day trips and went to Just Like Heaven. I think some people believe that the unemployed deserve to suffer as some sort of karmic justice for not having to go to work. I didn’t suffer, at least not during the day. I would be consumed with anxiety at night, but I never suffered during the day.

An ex bf died unexpectedly - someone I’d dated for three years when we were fresh out of college. It had been over eight years since we’d talked, and I want to be very clear that I’m not centering my feelings over those of his family’s, more recent partners (especially the love who was with him at his end), and friends. In fact, so much of my sadness was wrapped up in seeing his friends/family, so many of whom I knew and liked, in so much pain. But another thing I learned was that it can all co-exist - there is room enough for all of our grief, and even though mine might look different it’s still valid. It’s still tough to discern what pain is my sadness over his loss and what is the pain of his best friend, who collapsed on my shoulder at the wake, or his mom, who had spent a lifetime sacrificing for him - but ultimately, I don’t need to, because it all counts. I went to the services, cried with people I hadn’t seen in years, found peace by connecting with another ex-gf of his who told me that they’d talk about “If you had a day to live and could talk with five people from your past, who would you pick” and my name always came up. I had time to sit in the tough, conflicting feelings, speak my thoughts out loud, journal. And I had skills/language to be comfortable with the discomfort, not judge my feelings, and not demand that healing happen on a certain timeline. In the past, I have not been great about processing things, especially when they were uncomfortable - I really made an effort to not do that this time.

Recalibrating my use of social media

I haven’t had the facebook app in years, but this year I took a big step back from posting on social media at all. I was tired of endless scrolling as a distraction and regularly deleted the IG app, and didn’t post much. Ultimately, posting anything on social media (for me) is purposefully done to solicit the dopamine hit of likes/validation and project an image about your life - if it wasn’t, you would just write in your diary or something. I don’t think social media is a bad thing - trust me, I had some of the best convos of my year in the IG DMs - but it’s definitely engineered to get us addicted and too much will make us sick. I hope to cut back more in 2020. It’s been easy to let weeks pass without logging in to Facebook, where the only content I see anymore is from brands and the handful of people who still post actively, but I had FOMO every time I deleted the Instagram app. Maybe I’ll get more comfortable with its absence in 2020.

Therapy

Ten free sessions through my old job’s EAP. This wasn’t my first time going to therapy, but it was the most impactful. I’d picked this person because she practiced close to me, not knowing that she specialized in “somatic experience” therapy. You can wiki a good definition for it, but I’ll define somatic therapy as getting you out of your head and into your body, paying attention to bodily sensations and where your energy is stored when you recall something painful, so the body can heal itself of trauma. I used to think I had no trauma, because I was never neglected/abused, had a good childhood, have a lot of privilege, etc. However, like all of us, I have existed in the world and had painful experiences and memories, which (I learned) are stored in the body. I have suffered from a lifelong tendency to be “in my head,” telling a story about things and trying (and failing) to think my way out of difficult feelings. Somatic therapy taught me the value of being in my body and experiencing bodily sensations - a sick feeling when thinking about a painful memory, for example - non-judgmentally *without* going down the mental rabbit hole. Our bodies are so much more accessible than our minds, and I feel lighter and mentally capable with all the tools I have to listen to mine.

If you want to read more about healing trauma and existing in the world more functionally, I recommend these books:

Bessel van der Kolk, The Body Keeps the Score: Brain, Mind, and Body in the Healing of Trauma

Peter A. Levine, Waking the Tiger: Healing Trauma

Mark Wolynn, It Didn’t Start with You:How Inherited Family Trauma Shapes Who We Are and How to End the Cycle (this book changed my life radically. Did you know that on a DNA level, when your grandma was pregnant with your mom, everything happening to your grandma was also happening to you?)

Don Miguel Ruiz, The Four Agreements (not about trauma but had a lot of great lessons)

Astrology

YMMV, but astrology has been a more helpful tool for understanding, owning, and attempting to change my negative traits than any religion and most therapy ever has. It’s so much deeper than reading about how your day is going to go - it’s been a tool for looking at who I am, what my natural inclinations are, what the challenges are/will be. And if something doesn’t feel accurate, I have the reframing capabilities to think “Is this offset by other aspects in my chart? Do I have a blind spot?” And as Chani Nicholas says, take what works for you, leave the rest.

Getting Free program

Do you ever think about a thing in your life and realize that you can pinpoint the moment that led to that course of events? In September 2018, my friend and I went to a daylong feminist event called Mothership. There were different workshops and speakers, and one was this woman whose talk was ostensibly about toxic relationships but veered into trauma, colonialism, racism, personal style, parenting, social media, and all sorts of issues. I followed her on IG and came to learn that she ran a women’s group called Getting Free every year. Literally the last day to sign up, I did. Even with the unemployment, I trusted that investing in myself would pay off in ways I couldn’t fully understand. The group provided a nice complement to therapy and work I was doing on my own, and prompted introspection. It’s rare that we get a long-term chance to really take a look at ourselves, ask big questions, and see how it all connects. As a side benefit, I’ve gotten to hang out with really cool women at an end-of-summer pool party and during a winter solstice DTLA loft hangout.

Lessons I’ve internalized

Noticing/Awareness/Naming. When a feeling pops up, notice it and speak it (verbally or in your head) “Wow, I’m feeling XXXXX as a result of XXXXX. I wonder what that’s about.” And approaching it non-judgmentally with curiosity, not interrogation - more like “huh, that’s interesting.” You don’t have to find the root cause of every emotion you feel, but you do have to be self-aware enough to notice patterns.

Reframing things. I think this part can be perceived as letting yourself off the hook or making excuses, like ignoring all your responsibilities and calling it “self care.” But reframing is critical for stretching your ability to see things from outside your limited little perspective. For example, if I had spent my whole unemployment thinking “I am such a loser for not having a job,” that would not have been useful. How does me beating myself up serve anyone or help me get a job? It doesn’t. Reframing to think “I am where I’m supposed to be and something will happen at the right moment” was crucial in maintaining a modicum of self-esteem and mentally zooming out to focus on the larger story of my life.

Getting away from filtering my perception of myself through external sources. I have felt so much freer walking down the street knowing it doesn’t matter what another person thinks of me. I know what *I* think of me. And by the way, this will probably be a lifelong effort for me. It’s fine. Some things come naturally to me, but being carefree about what others think of me traditionally hasn’t been one of them. Nonetheless, I stopped to ask “What are my ideas about myself, and where did they come from?” Sometimes there’s a clear answer that you don’t even realize until you speak it out loud, like how I spent a lifetime thinking I wasn’t creative because I got a bad grade on an art project in elementary school. Luckily, I know better now (and don’t judge myself for not knowing better before!)

“It can all be true.” This is among the most useful sentences I’ve ever heard. Years ago in a sales course, I learned the value of replacing “but” with “and” - meaning that multiple, sometimes conflicting, things can be true. I want a job, AND I’m enjoying the downtime. I had a bad breakup with an ex AND was upset about his death. I can feel one way without negating your experience, and vice versa. 

Embracing changes and shifts. This is probably the most surprising development, as I used to half-joke about fearing change. But really, change is a good thing. It’s happening regardless of how much you cling to the past, so you might as well learn to roll with it, adapt, and do the painful work of growing. I know the importance of a growth mindset and being up for challenges. I would never have asked to be laid off, but I knew that it was an opportunity to learn lessons about life, work, and myself.

Conclusion

The exact story of how my unemployment ended will need to be saved for in-person over drinks. What I’m comfortable sharing in this forum is that I had a good opportunity, which turned into a big win. I had the enviable problem of having to (getting to) make a choice, and the choice I turned down was a Fortune 100 company. Like dating, the place I ended up felt unquestionably “right.” I began the year in pajama pants at home, and ended in my own office in a skyscraper. I have an amazing team (as I have everywhere I’ve worked) and am becoming a better writer, collaborator, communicator. Every Friday, there’s a farmer’s market where I buy pupusas to eat in the park, and when I walk to the subway to go home I see families and groups of foreign teens taking selfies in front of the buildings on Grand Avenue, about to explore the night.

Does that mean anything? Yes and no. So much of what I tried to do this year was disentangle my sense of worth from my job, marital status, money, friends, events, or lack thereof. I have inherent worth regardless of any of those things. I have (or can work towards) internal peace regardless of circumstance. And while we can celebrate our victories, ultimately, the job we do to pay the bills is such a small piece of the person we’re becoming. It’s easy for me to be happy now that I’m sitting pretty, lessons learned, bag secured. It’s more challenging to think about what my attitude would be if we reached this point in the year and I didn’t have a great job. But I have to trust that something else would have worked out, since it always does. And apart from the obvious benefits to changing jobs, I don’t know if I could have received the lessons of this year without going through a seriously tough moment in life.

It would also be easy for me to just look at where I am on December 31, 2019, compared to where I was on January 1, 2019, and convey the message that my life has upgraded, and leave it at that. But I truly feel that it would be a disservice to tell that narrative when I engaged in so much labor to transform my life on emotional and spiritual levels. The unemployment and job hunting stuff is only the B-plot of this year. Getting a job is a piece of cake compared to grappling with generational trauma. The real narrative arc is about how I thrived. Healed. Learned. And will continue to do so.

We’re never done. We get to continue to try. We can’t cross off “get perfect career” “have perfect marriage” “conquer fear of dying” or anything off a list and be done with it, but we can continue to make incremental improvements. It’s the work and burden and joy and privilege of being alive. I’m not celebrating 2019 as a victory lap, but a time when I embraced change and let people see who I really was.

Boston // July 2019

I lived in Boston for a semester, during a university exchange program or what I now call “study abroad for sheltered kids.” No disrespect - even though now I have vague regrets about never having done a study abroad semester in college, I truly never had a desire to at the time. An exchange at another US university was perfect for me. We had to rank our choices for placements, and mine were: 1. Suffolk University (Boston), 2. Hunter College (NYC), 3. UMASS Boston, 4. University of Missouri, St. Louis - my primary concern that I get to be in an urban environment. I got placed at Suffolk and had the best semester ever. At 21, for the first time I was living away from home, navigating a city, and getting a taste of what it was like to live as an independent adult. I was sad to leave and had only been back once, the following summer, when my family flew in and out of Boston and drove into Canada, back before you needed a passport to drive to Canada.

The prospect of seeing the Dodgers play the Red Sox at Fenway this past July was very intriguing, and I’d always wanted to take Edward to Boston and show him my old stomping grounds. Even though Boston is best experienced in the fall, we felt like we could brave the weather for the game and see everything else at the same time. Here are some of the highlights:

The historical/tourist stuff

Because it was Edward’s first time in town, we had to go on the Freedom Trail, tour the State House, and spend time in the Common/Public Garden. We also explored Beacon Hill (where Suffolk’s campus is) and the downtown region, Back Bay, the North End (Mike’s Pastry), and the JFK Library.

The Frog Pond

The Frog Pond

The swan boats which move very very slowly along the pond at the Public Garden.

The swan boats which move very very slowly along the pond at the Public Garden.

Acorn Street

Acorn Street

The beautiful JFK library. It was my 3rd time there! (Over 18 years.)

The beautiful JFK library. It was my 3rd time there! (Over 18 years.)

It’s really a lovely space.

It’s really a lovely space.

My old haunts

I lived in Allston, the student ghetto, which at the time boasted plenty of cheap eats, concert venues, and bars. (Here is a great Allston photo series I found years ago, by Bill T. Miller.) Since it was summer, it wasn’t as teeming with students as I remember, but man was it crazy to get off the B line at Harvard Ave and walk those streets again. I showed Edward the sights - my old apartment, Twin Donuts, the Model Cafe (which was unfortunately closed) - and we had a drink at a dope bar that wasn’t there when I lived there, Deep Ellum. I also wanted to show him places I hung out in Cambridge and by Suffolk. I can tell a thousand stories about my time in Boston, and every place we saw set off a memory, but I won’t get into most of them here.

The Allston pad

The Allston pad

Why did Charlie’s Kitchen become my spot in Cambridge? It was always a great time.

Why did Charlie’s Kitchen become my spot in Cambridge? It was always a great time.

The New England Aquarium has a sea lion tank outside the building, which you can view at no charge. I did that so much when I first moved and was homesick.

The New England Aquarium has a sea lion tank outside the building, which you can view at no charge. I did that so much when I first moved and was homesick.

The Beer Gardens

One thing I really admire about cities that have awful winters - they know how to make the most of their summers. We went to FIVE seasonal beer gardens throughout our trip:

  • Boston Seasons, set up near City Hall

  • Trillium Beer Garden on the Greenway

  • Night Shift Brewing’s Owl’s Nest (in Allston, along the river)

  • Aeronaut Brewing Company (in Allston)

  • Cisco Seaport

They were all fantastic, but my personal fave was probably Owl’s Nest. It was remote and hard to find, and the humidity made it feel like New Orleans, but it was scenic and relaxing at that late afternoon golden hour. There’s another Owl’s Nest on the Esplanade, closer to town, but it was unfortunately rain-delayed when we tried to go. No worries - five beer gardens was more than sufficient.

Hazys on the Greenway

Hazys on the Greenway

Aeronaut. Live music, pizza, and outdoor lights. ‘‘Twas a magical evening until the skies opened up and everyone had to go home!

Aeronaut. Live music, pizza, and outdoor lights. ‘‘Twas a magical evening until the skies opened up and everyone had to go home!

Night Shift Owl’s Nest. Simply perfect scenery and great vibes.

Night Shift Owl’s Nest. Simply perfect scenery and great vibes.

Dodgers Cruise/Game at Fenway

The main reason for the trip was technically to see the Dodgers at Fenway which, for all you non-baseball folks out there, is a rare event. They were playing a three-game series over the weekend, and we were far from the only Angelenos who wanted in on the action - both flights were rife with other Dodger fans flying in for the event. It actually caused a bit of a disruption in the city and at the game we attended, because people were flummoxed that there were so many Dodger fans there. Luckily, they won the Saturday game we attended 11-2, and we were surrounded with other Dodger fans who I high-fived after each run. Our tickets also came with admission to a clubhouse called the Royal Rooters club, so we got to see artifacts and mementos from Red Sox and Fenway’s storied history. I LOVED being at Fenway, from the history to the surrounding area to singing Sweet Caroline.

Earlier in the day, we went on a harbor cruise organized by Pantone 294 and had a fantastic time taking in the sights! It was so fun to pre-game out on the sea.

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Other notes

  • We stayed at an Airbnb downtown which was a pretty great. There are a bunch owned by the same property management company, and it’s significantly cheaper than a hotel - Boston hotels are NYC-level expensive.

  • It was jarring to have lost so much familiarity with the city! My life back then was pretty contained to Allston, the Suffolk campus, and wherever I could go on the T, and I’ve never been great at orienting where I am to the city at large (regardless of what city we’re talking about). And obviously, it’d been a while since I’d been there, so stuff had changed. But the T smelled the same, and I remembered how it works.

  • The humidity was no joke. Woof.

  • Boston is a great city and I was so glad to have an excuse to visit!

COCHON 555 // June 2, 2019

I went to Cochon555 this past weekend, a tour and cooking competition devoted to raising awareness for heritage pigs and sustainable farming, butchery, and cooking. Five chefs compete to make the most varied and tasty dishes from one of five pigs, and attendees get to vote on the winner. Both Edward and I had the same favorite: Brian Redzikowski of Kettner Exchange (technically a San Diego restaurant, no less). We obviously weren’t alone because Kettner ended up winning, meaning they get to go to the final competition in Chicago!

I’ve been to probably close to 50 food/cocktail/wine/beer events and thought that Cochon was very well-run. Plentiful whiskey cocktails, not too crowded and no one ran out of food. I’m never great at remembering to take photos at these things - to be honest, there’s often nowhere to place a plate/stage a photo, and I’m usually more concerned with trying the next dish. Nonetheless, here are a few snaps. Congratulations again to the crew at Kettner Exchange, and thanks to The Perfect Puree for the tickets!

El Tesoro Tequila’s hibiscus punch was the beverage highlight. Who could resist the color? Not I.

El Tesoro Tequila’s hibiscus punch was the beverage highlight. Who could resist the color? Not I.

Gyro and empanada from Mason.

Gyro and empanada from Mason.

The menu at Kettner. Everything a hit.

The menu at Kettner. Everything a hit.

Pig gelatines. We’re not worthy. Note the giant caviar above.

Pig gelatines. We’re not worthy. Note the giant caviar above.

Pig Mac Bao.

Pig Mac Bao.

Whole hog.

Whole hog.

City Market Social House is a great venue, but everyone was sweating inside. Outside was much more pleasant.

City Market Social House is a great venue, but everyone was sweating inside. Outside was much more pleasant.

Black Cow Vodka’s take on a Moscow Mule

Black Cow Vodka’s take on a Moscow Mule

Just Like Heaven Festival // May 4, 2019

 
Heavenly.

Heavenly.

Anyone who knows me for a while will eventually learn that I went to Coachella 8 times. This fact comes up more organically than you might think, believe it or not - around the time that the lineup is announced, or when some performance becomes a larger cultural moment a la Beychella. I went for the first time in 2004 when I was 19, and for the last time in 2013 when I was 28. Things were different then - this was prior to the festival having synergistic tie-ins with clothing stores promoting “festival ~lewks~,” or an excess of Instagram influencers. I’d like to say it was “more about the music” then, but honestly, the Palm Springs parties, cultural appropriation, corporate influence, and desert fashions existed then too. Besides, people have been complaining about Coachella since it started, and too much of it starts to sound like someone sharing their underlying belief that things were better back in their day. Coachella was a huge part of my identity for a while. It changed a little, and so did I. I got older, and the lineups were less my taste, and my youthful tolerance for standing in the sun all day and camping in the dirt wore thin.

Goldenvoice must have realized that there were other people like me, who had aged out of Coachella but would commit to a one-day affair, particularly one by the ocean. When the Just Like Heaven festival was announced, people on Twitter cracked wise about how the similarities to late-aughts Coachellas were a transparent effort to get older millennials to relieve their glory days. But hey, the formula worked. Have a listen:

In the grace of your love. Check out my recap of the inagural Just Like Heaven fest at http://www.heysusannah.com/blog/2019/5/17/just-like-heaven-festival-may-4-2019

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For me, the bands I cared about were either bands I still like and have seen recently (Yeah Yeah Yeahs, Grizzly Bear, Beach House) or bands I’d seen deeeeeep in the past (The Faint, The Rapture, Passion Pit). I couldn’t miss the chance to see all these bands and relive my festival days with other like-minds.

I’ll admit that the festival was not without problems. Tickets were hard to come by, with tiered pricing. The festival grounds were accessible only by shuttles, which complicated things (though it sounds like it was more of an issue for Friday attendees). Still, once we arrived we were in great spirits remembering how fun it is to go to festivals. With a lineup this stacked, we were definitely busy, but got to see full sets from nearly everyone we cared about.

I *never* listen to this band anymore but their set was one of my faves.

I *never* listen to this band anymore but their set was one of my faves.

The Queen Mary Park is simply gorgeous. Long Beach in the background. Great place for an event.

The Queen Mary Park is simply gorgeous. Long Beach in the background. Great place for an event.

Grizzly Bear were a little low-energy, but they’ve got some great songs.

Grizzly Bear were a little low-energy, but they’ve got some great songs.

The only “disappointment” was Passion Pit not playing one of my favorite songs of theirs, Moth’s Wings, but maybe my twilight memories from 2010 can’t be touched. At the end of the night, shuttles were plentiful even for those of us who opted not to stay until the very end - our aching feet a reminder that we’re not as young as we used to be. You gotta hand it to them - Goldenvoice had their audience pegged.

Just a few nice moments from the festival.

The Barkyard at Petco Park (San Diego, CA)

I’m glad I was born and raised in LA, and if you ask me, one of the selling points of LA living is proximity to San Diego. Sure, the drive can be horrific (that’s why the Surfliner train is a good alternative), but being able to get to paradise in a mere 2 or 5 hours (depending on traffic) is an underrated perk of living in LA. I grew up going to San Diego for family trips, and every time I visit as an adult I’m like, why don’t I come here more often? The city has perfect weather, breweries, dog-friendly patios and rooftops, and burritos with fries inside.

All these elements combine in their baseball stadium, Petco Park. In a small section of center-left field called the Barkyard, 6 private, dog-friendly boxes accommodate 4 people and 2 canines each. Many stadiums have an annual Bark in the Park/Pups in the Park (I enjoy going to that, too), but the Barkyard is open for every single Padres home game.

Access to the Barkyard doesn’t come easy. For one, your pet has to be pre-approved before you can buy tickets- you must fill out an online application where you verify information about your dog and provide vaccination records. More notably, the prospect of bringing the dog along to a baseball game is appealing to many in a dog-friendly town such as San Diego, so there’s a waitlist, and a few people we spoke to said that they purchased multiple games a year or more in advance. It’s definitely meant for local Padres fans who can enjoy the experience more readily, not necessarily LA interlopers like ourselves.

However! We’ve now been a couple of times, most recently on Good Friday’s game against the Cincinnati Reds. We are Dodgers fans for life but predictably, those Padres-Dodgers matchups are a hot commodity and we weren’t able to score tickets. I think the key is to not give a hoot about which team the Padres are playing and just get whatever tickets you can, for the experience.

Other than the novelty of having a box to yourself and being with your dog, one major draw of the experience is in-seat concessions from none other than Carnitas Snack Shack. You can order from a limited menu of food offerings, as well as beers/cocktails, and a server will deliver right to your box.

The food menu- carnitas tacos, queso fries, burgers, and sandwiches.

The food menu- carnitas tacos, queso fries, burgers, and sandwiches.

Carnitas queso fries are divine.

Carnitas queso fries are divine.

The Barkyard’s drink menu is simple and gets the job done.

The Barkyard’s drink menu is simple and gets the job done.

They also have cute mascots that come by during the game.

They also have cute mascots that come by during the game.

Since it’s a long drive, we have to stay overnight and this time stayed at the Hotel Indigo, just a couple of blocks from the stadium. I loved this hotel! The room was nice, and the facility has a 9th floor rooftop lounge and dog run. It was so convenient to take the dog out without ever having to leave the hotel.

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Roof Boys

Roof Boys

See ya soon, San Diego. No current trips to SD planned, but I never stay away for long.

A downtown day supporting UTLA teachers and students

I had a nice little downtown day supporting our teachers and students at Grand Park.

I’m not a teacher, nor even a parent, but I had a free day and decided to show up to support the people doing this important work. Many women in my family - both grandmas, aunt, cousin, mom - spent their careers in public education, and of course I’m a product of public schools (including state university!) So I wore red and showed up to the rally in Grand Park. I really appreciate that Grand Park has become an epicenter of activism and celebration, especially because I have a soft spot since it’s where my husband proposed!

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My favorite moment was Aloe Blacc playing a few songs, starting with “I Need a Dollar” and finishing with “Wake Me Up.” Everyone was incredibly energized and it was exciting to be there.

After the rally was over, I grabbed lunch at Burgerlords in Chinatown. Been to this spot a couple of other times and they have a small menu of classic burgers and fries. Simple, unfussy, and hit the spot after standing around the rally for hours.

Obligatory “I barely drink soda buuuuuuuut…” sometimes it’s needed after a rally.

Obligatory “I barely drink soda buuuuuuuut…” sometimes it’s needed after a rally.

Finally, I enjoyed a beer at Imperial Western, a new-ish bar in Union Station that I’ve already managed to visit a few other times. Years ago, I took an LA Conservancy tour of Union Station and we went into the defunct Harvey House restaurant, which was rented out for special events and had otherwise fallen into disuse. When word spread that the excellent 213 bar group had bought the space to revamp, I was excited but unprepared for how long the wait would be. Turns out, the wait was worth it and it’s great to have a drink in the huge, light-filled space at such an iconic station. Today I had a collaboration brew, Bells and Whistles (a peach sour).

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My thoughts take me downtown.

My thoughts take me downtown.

Puerto Vallarta // August 2018

(Author’s note: I originally started this post in fall of 2018 and am finally getting around to finishing it, in very early days of 2019. When I talk about “this year” I am referring to 2018. Happy new year! )

We couldn’t figure out what to do for our vacation this year. Europe was thrown around; itineraries were casually brought up. I got recommendations for Greece from a colleague. We eventually crunched the numbers and realized that this wasn’t the year for Greece/Italy jaunt.. maybe Hawaii? Maybe Panama? My coworker had been to Puerto Vallarta for her honeymoon and suggested that. We looked into it. Did you know that PV is only about a 3-hour flight from LAX, and flights were roughly $300 round trip? We found a resort that looked perfect. Elizabeth Taylor used to vacation there, and her imprint is all over the town.

7 nights was probably a bit much - if I were to do it over, 5 is more than enough. I also think that given how close it is to lots of the southern U.S., it would be a great long weekend (3-4 night) trip. Every day we woke up, Ubered or walked to breakfast, went to do the day’s activity, came back and lounged in the pool, cleaned up for dinner, and spent the evening indulging in great food and drinks.  By U.S. standards, everything was shockingly cheap (except for activities specifically marketed towards tourists) - we had a couple of very luxurious meals that were about half the cost they would have been at home. Most importantly, everyone was so nice. You expect that at a resort catered to Americans, but we spent most of our time off the resort, and everyone from random folks in the fishing village to bartenders and restaurant owners in town were incredibly friendly. When we went on our honeymoon a few years ago (in Cancun), we didn’t really get off the resort much so it was nice to feel a sense of authentic Mexico. Here are some of the highlights of the trip:

Playa Mislamoya / Snorkeling at Los Arcos

I have always been squicked out by fish - not sure why, but there’s just something about them that’s always made me shudder a little. However, if you need proof that humans are resilient and can overcome their fears when pursuing a larger goal - this was one of my favorite parts of the trip! We arrived at Playa Mislamoya, a small fishing cove made famous by the film Night of the Iguana. Like all Mexican beaches, this one had a lot of people trying to sell you things - not a problem, as by then I’d gotten used to giving a firm No and didn’t find it annoying to be asked. A few people offered us boat trips, but the woman who came by a few times and offered us 1 hour on her boat for 800 pesos ($40 USD) won our business. We bought beers and waters from the restaurant we were sitting at, and headed out into open water. I was really nervous at first, but had a great time and felt really free. Maybe every vacation, you should do something that scares you a little! Anyway, after we’d snorkled, we sailed around the arcos and then went back to the beach.

Only pic we got of us actually snorkeling with the arcos in the background, lol. Bless the sweet woman who took us!

Only pic we got of us actually snorkeling with the arcos in the background, lol. Bless the sweet woman who took us!

The arcos

The arcos

I feel kinda free

I feel kinda free

Playa las Gemelas

Going into our trip, we knew that the beaches weren’t going to be those vibrant blue Cancun waters, nor the calm aqua Hawaii beaches we’d experienced the previous year. However, we did our research and learned that very nice beaches were only a short Uber away. Gemelas was down some steps that lead into a sparse, but gorgeous, small cove-like beach. There were people selling coconut water and umbrellas, but otherwise no amenities. With a beach this nice, not much else was needed.

Forgot to take many pics here, probably because I was enjoying myself so much! (Plus… it’s a beach. You know what a beach looks like.)

Forgot to take many pics here, probably because I was enjoying myself so much! (Plus… it’s a beach. You know what a beach looks like.)

Sunset Cruise

One of the highlights of our Hawaii trip was taking a mai tai catamaran - I love being in the water and on boats - and I knew I wanted to do another one. This was the aforementioned expensive activity (about $100 USD a person, which is obviously geared toward American/Canadian tourists) but included drinks and a bento box. It was us and a half dozen other couples, all of whom were mellow. We spent about 2 hours on the water enjoying the legendary PV sunset and even saw dolphins. It was a blast.

Foodstuffs

Foodstuffs

My god.

My god.

Beautiful sunset and dolphins!

Food/Drink

Because Puerto gets so unbelievably humid and hot, summer is considered “off season.” Not as many people want to visit in the hot summer months. The downside of this, other than the obvious perma-sweat and frizzy hair, is that some places (really just a handful) are closed for the season. The upside is that things are way less crowded. I’m sure that the lack of crowds had a little something to do with the great service we got everywhere we went, but at the same time, everyone was SO friendly that I think it must just be part of who the people are. Restaurant owners gave us free bites and drinks; bartenders who found out that I speak some Spanish would converse with me in Spanish, helping me recall the many (many) words I’ve lost since I last spoke it; people were just generally really nice. Here are a few highlights of the restaurants and bars we went to:

Casa Kimberly

We were only planning on having drinks here, but were so taken by the space that we spontaneously decided to have dinner, and they were able to accommodate us without a reservation (that “low season” thing probably comes into play here). Seriously, it felt like we were in some village in Italy. I bet a sunset cocktail here would be amazing.

Casa Kimberly, aka the hotel in Liz Taylor’s former home

Casa Kimberly, aka the hotel in Liz Taylor’s former home

La Palapa

On the first day we arrived, the weather was the worst of the whole trip - just pouring rain all evening. We’d had reservations at a beachfront restaurant called La Palapa, and had to change our plans because of the weather. It was a major bummer, because that seemed like such a nice way to kick off the trip, and I was also worried that the weather would be that bad the whole time - which it wasn’t, btw. Every other day was reliably similar - clear and cloudless day, clouds rolling in in the afternoon, gorgeous dramatic sunset, and humid evening giving way to lightning storms. Anyway, we were able to reschedule La Palapa for the next night and it was absolutely worth the wait. The food and atmosphere were great, and we saw our first of many beautiful sunsets.

Dobladitas (an empanada-esque appetizer that I had never tried or heard of before this)

Dobladitas (an empanada-esque appetizer that I had never tried or heard of before this)

Every second was more beautiful than the last

Every second was more beautiful than the last

Cafe de Artistes

This is one of the finest restaurants in PV. Though their famed rainforest-esque patio was closed for the season, we enjoyed the dining room and gorgeously-presented food.

Salmon

Salmon

Beets and polenta

Beets and polenta

Other spots we enjoyed a lot:

  • River Cafe/Cafe Rio - there’s a river that runs through town and there are a few spots along the river, including this pretty well-known place. I had an absolutely amazing breakfast that came with memorable strawberry french toast sticks.

  • Bar la Playa - we ended up coming here a couple of different nights because it was so cool. Mixology-inspired cocktails, many of which were spicy.

  • El Sonador - lotsa Americans at this rooftop bar both times we went - they were actually playing the Dodger game. Actually, that was another thing we kept noticing - many people had connections to Los Angeles/the United States, either having lived there at one point or being an American citizen of Mexican descent, spending time in Mexico.

  • El Barracuda - they’re famous for their fish tacos, which we devoured with a couple of beers right on the beach

  • El Andariego - this spot was right by our hotel, so we had a couple of breakfasts here. They’re well known for “divorced eggs” (eggs with both green and red sauce), and one of my breakfasts came with a side of both chilaquiles AND hash browns. **suffice it to say that the breakfasts in Mexico were enormous and often came with a bread basket or some other starter. They were also, like, $20 including tips.

All in all, we had a great time and are definitely planning to revisit this town at some point. Hasta Luego, Puerto.

Vanity.

It all started because of the horrible laundry facilities at my building. We've lived here almost 6 years, and the washing machines have intermittently sucked. Sometimes everything goes as planned - dirty clothes go in, clean clothes come out, some clothes go into the dryer, some (mostly mine) get hung up to air dry. A shoddy spin cycle has reared its head enough times that we were over the "laundry roulette" guessing game of wondering whether we'd get clothes that were drenched and needed an extra three rotations in the dryer or an extra two days air drying. We started going out to the laundromat.

I'm not crazy about the laundromat. I've gone on and off, mostly off, throughout my life. It's a drag to have to haul your laundry to your car and participate in a chore that you *should* be able to do in your own building. But the benefits outweigh the inconvenience. We can be completely done with laundry in 2 hours, and we know the machines are definitely working. We usually will go grab lunch while waiting for stuff to dry, which makes the whole thing more "pleasant weekend outing" and less "annoying chore". Most significantly to this story - there is a CVS next door.

As a kid, I prowled drugstores frequently. My elementary BFF and I would get personal pizzas at Round Table - $2.35 with a coupon that came on the back of the grocery store receipt, which both of our mothers saved for us. Pizza and unlimited soda, a candy claw machine, video games (I liked Tekken) and a jukebox. We could hang out there for hours, and often did during our school breaks. I wanted a hangout like the characters in books/TV had: Dairi Burger in Sweet Valley, The Max in Saved by the Bell. Round Table wasn't exactly that, and we were a little young for that anyway, but we did see kids from our school there on occasion. After we'd had our fill of sodas and overstayed our welcome, we'd go get an ice cream cone from the Rite Aid in the same shopping center. We started reading magazines about boys and makeup, then started buying makeup. My cousin and I would go on similar outings when we went to visit them in Orange County - see a movie at the cheapo late-run theater, go to Rite Aid. Practice makeup on each other. I must have been in 5th grade or so. I favored purple eyeshadow because I liked how it looked against my green eyes. I couldn't get the hang of lipstick but I wore shimmery gloss. Like so many teenagers, I wore a raccoon-esque layer of black eyeliner.

My makeup habits and knowledge stayed shamefully similar for most of girlhood. Whether I was 14 going to the mall, 19 going to a concert, 26 going on a first date, my makeup routine was: concealer, foundation, loose translucent powder. Black mascara, eyeliner. Lip gloss. That's it. On workdays, I'd keep it to powder and mascara. Or later - none.

Which is fine. I have never bought into the idea that women in generally, or I specifically, must wear makeup or be particularly adept at it. It's bullshit that makeup is foisted upon women as an obligation, and women feel compelled to apologize for their un-made faces. We will not be free until women are as carefree with their appearances as men are. And yet. As comfortable as I was/am going bare-faced, I knew that part of why I didn't bother with makeup was that it was so out of my comfort zone. So much has changed since I devoured teen magazines in 1997 - BB cream, CC cream, primer, contouring, etc didn't exist. It seemed like the rules had changed and makeup was way more complicated than it had been.

But going to the laundromat and having time to kill at CVS next door reminded me that there was a time when I lived for makeup. I got those familiar feelings of wanting to buy a lot of different things and having to choose. The difference is that now I'm an adult and have a larger income than a weekly $5 for cleaning my room. Over time, I built a good collection. I still am.

A couple of other things happened:

1. Shortly after my wedding I cut my hair - a cliché move of many newly-married women - and though I'd had short hair before, I had to learn how to curl and style this new cut. I had to experiment with products and started purchasing the fancy Italian brand they sell at my salon. I had to teach myself something new. There was a steep learning curve, and of course I'll never be as good as my stylist, but I feel reasonably confident about my ability to execute a hair style now. It occurred to me that it had been so long since I'd forced myself to learn a new skill.

2. I got interested in jewelry. I've talked about this before.

3. I read "The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up." Though the book's central tenant is minimalism to an extent that feels unnatural, some of the themes resonated with me. Immediately upon reading it, I KonMari'ed my closet and have since been much better about adding clothes to my wardrobe only when I really like them. Marie Kondo writes about how objects have energies and are "happiest" when they are fulfilling their purpose. She believes that everything you have should be both functional and beautiful (whatever that means to you) with a place it lives when you are not using it - ideally, clothes live in your drawer or closet, folded or hung nicely, with space to breathe.

This particular point hit hard when I thought about my beauty products. All the hair styling items, makeup, and jewelry that I owned was relegated to clear Lucite boxes that I barely touched. A perfume set I'd gotten as a gift in 2010 was still in the box. (I used the perfume on occasion - but not much. Out of sight, out of mind.) Marie Kondo would say that I was not respecting these items by letting them fulfill their purpose.

So here I was with a growing collection of makeup, jewelry, and hair products, having read a book about respecting your belongings, with my own truly sorry storage situation. Beauty items strewn about, under and around a table in boxes my dog had knocked over and stepped on multiple times. Messy. No consideration given to making the items organized.

Before: A Hot Mess

Woof.

Woof.

So yeah, you can imagine that I didn't spent a ton of time appreciating the things I owned.

I'd always wanted a vanity. At age 32, I finally bought one off Amazon and assembled it myself. Over time, I bought little organizers for my makeup and a necklace holder for my rapidly-increasing necklace collection. I display my perfume and lotion in their own corner. I keep bobby pins, hair ties, and clips in a specific place, so they have a home base and aren't just thrown all over my apartment. I have all my nail polishes out. I've always suffered from a tendency to "have" things rather than "use" them, but now that my things are all displayed, I use them way more. Just seeing this display of items that I find beautiful, that make me feel beautiful - well, that's worth something.

Let's appreciate how far it's come.

Now: A Pretty, Organized Treasure Trove

Top surface is for displaying/using. Bottom shelf is utilitarian - hair clips, makeup wipes, sponges. It's all organized!

Top surface is for displaying/using. Bottom shelf is utilitarian - hair clips, makeup wipes, sponges. It's all organized!

None of my actual makeup is in these photos because I store that in the bathroom, and bring it to my vanity when needed. Most mornings I get ready in the bathroom.

Polish, perfume, lotion.

Polish, perfume, lotion.

When you see your necklaces on a regular basis, you wear your necklaces more often.

When you see your necklaces on a regular basis, you wear your necklaces more often.

I don't have a ton of bracelets, but don't they look nicer on this display than strewn about?

I don't have a ton of bracelets, but don't they look nicer on this display than strewn about?

Crystals I bought for pure enjoyment. The big Amethyst was a gift from my mom, as was the monogrammed hanky.

Crystals I bought for pure enjoyment. The big Amethyst was a gift from my mom, as was the monogrammed hanky.

The whole tableau. It makes me happy to see it every day.

The whole tableau. It makes me happy to see it every day.

I love sitting at my vanity and doing my makeup on Saturday nights. Styling my hair is a major chore - I hate doing it, even if I like the end result. But doing my makeup? I find it almost meditative. I love to apply primer. I love filling in my brows (never needed much help there, but man they look great with some extra powder). I love to tightline and decide on the fly what my eyeshadow colors will be. There's so much more to learn, but I enjoy the process of experimentation. I love that if I make a mistake, it's easy to fix. I really love that other than major eyeliner spillage or lipstick that looks as though it was applied by Miranda Sings, there aren't really mistakes to make. I don't mind that it takes time. Then when I'm done (generally when I have to leave in 2 minutes), I pick out jewelry and perfume, and look in the mirror, and feel satisfied with the end result before rushing out the door.

Don't ever tell anybody anything.

Some time at the end of summer, in late August, I had a nice Sunday. We'd been wanting to try Nighthawk Breakfast Bar in Venice forever, but the idea of dragging ourselves to Venice on a Sunday seemed so unappealing. Who spends 35 minutes in the car for brunch, you know? After literally months of this, we bit the bullet and finally headed there. Predictably, it was amazing and we enjoyed chicken and biscuits, a brunch burger, Bloody Marys. The weather was so nice and we hadn't been to Venice since Christmas Day 2013, so we walked on the boardwalk for a bit before segueing to the canals.

We walked to the Hotel Erwin to check out a bar we knew of from Eye On LA, High Rooftop Lounge. It was shortly after 1pm and the sun was beating down, but there were patio umbrellas, sea breezes, and a front row seat to the expanse of Pacific. This is the type of place with table time limits and potentially a crowd that is... how should I say this... not "us"... but at that moment it was practically empty (though it filled up by the time our 2-hour table limit was up). We settled in with a drink.

At some point I wistfully said "I miss Hawaii." It had been a couple of months since our anniversary trip to Hawaii, which will probably go down as one of the top 10 trips I ever take, now or in the future, and something about that space reminded me of the balcony restaurants we ate at in Hawaii, staring at the Pacific from the other side. Immediately after I said it, I realized how ridiculous it was to express that sentiment while sitting in a lounge chair in Venice, CA. How many people would love to be able to do that, or how many people are back wherever they live, missing LA.

That point was further driven home when a Norwegian family sat at the loungers across from us. They were taking some pictures and I offered to take one of all three of them, the young-looking parents probably in their late 40s, and their teenage son. This is a tactic I learned from my mom - always offer to tourists to take their pictures, so they have a good impression of Los Angelenos and/or Americans. I have witnessed my mom take a picture for a group of rowdy Australians at Wurstkuche; I've done the same at the Griffith Observatory. After I took this family's picture, we talked a bit about where they'd traveled in America in their rented RV. "You're lucky to be so close to all this," the woman said, gesturing to the ocean and sky. I didn't mention the 35-minute drive and agreed that yes, we were.

At the end of our table limit, we said goodbye and that we hoped they'd enjoyed visiting the States. We meandered back through the canals to our car and the drive home, which probably took longer than 35 minutes.

It seemed like a normal Sunday afternoon at the time, and it was, but I wish I hadn't spent it pining for another day. Because now? I miss *that* day.

Some rich person has a sense of humor

Some rich person has a sense of humor

Sigh... 

Sigh... 

It's just a fond farewell to a friend.

 
The bar was so dark and I never took many/any pictures. This is from my milestone birthday.

The bar was so dark and I never took many/any pictures. This is from my milestone birthday.

Mindy Kaling says “A best friend isn’t a person, it’s a tier.” I feel that way about a lot of "bests" and "favorites" - I've never had just one best friend, favorite food, favorite drink, favorite park, favorite way to spend a Sunday, favorite bar.

My first favorite bar was Bigfoot Lodge (now distinguished by its Atwater location as Bigfoot Lodge East), where I first went shortly after coming of legal drinking age. Spent so many nights there with friends after shows at the Greek, or after doing something else but before we wanted to go home. I realize now that the log cabin motif, including an animatronic Smokey the Bear, was a hipster affectation, but at the time I thought it was amazing.

My favorite Boston bar was actually in Cambridge, called Charlie’s. The first time I went with my friend Rian, we saw Chuck Klosterman, whose reading we'd attended earlier nearby. He was waiting outside the bathroom and we spoke to him, awkwardly. This bar also had an outstanding jukebox where I once played the White Stripes "Black Math" and about 6 people instantly got up to leave.

I’ve had a lot of favorite bars. These days, if you asked me what my favorite bar was, depending on my mood I'd answer Seven Grand downtown, Tony’s Darts Away in Burbank, or Bar One in NoHo. But as of September 9th, I can no longer answer Bar One - it's gone. The owners have sold it to someone else.

The NoHo/Studio City area has an embarrassment of riches when it comes to bar and restaurant openings, with something new to get excited about on a constant basis. I’ve relished this for years now, always counting my blessings that I was in the center of so many cool places, attending the "soft opens" and thinking the good times would last forever. It never occurred to me that any place I loved could close down.

Bar One was open for 10 years and I was a customer there for 9 of them. In 2008, I went with Rian and Nick a few times - Nick knew of it, as he was the only Valley resident among us at the time. I always liked the vibe and the sangria. It was prior to the craft beer zeitgeist we’re currently living through, at least as far as I was concerned. I believe this was the first place I had Chimay and one of the places that expanded my beer horizons. It was tiny, it was red, it felt like a secret.

In 2010, my friend Jenny had this app called Happy Hour which would (surprise) find happy hours by your location. We were hanging out one random Thursday and it was an odd time, maybe 8:30, but Bar One was one of the few places with an extended happy hour. She’d never even heard of the place. It had been a while for me but I remembered the sangria, and we checked it out. I remember it being a sausage fest where some local weirdo with a proto-vape pen wouldn’t stop talking to us. But for some reason, we went again a few weeks later, it was completely different, and the love affair was born. The date was September 9, 2010 - 7 years to the day before they would close their doors. I know that because Facebook's "On this day" feature reminded me of some dashed-off status update I wrote at the time: "This place has the best music."

They also had the best beer list. It was small - they maybe had 10 taps to work with - but so thoughtful and original. Being spoiled as we are in LA with so many great places for beer, sometimes you can get a little jaded and think you’ve drunk it all. Bar One was consistently providing options I hadn’t tried, and I was always amazed at how quickly they cycled through different beers. You never saw the same list twice.

I had my 30th birthday party there and the band heckled me for yelling "WHOOO" too much. I went to vinyl night, Oktoberfest, trivia on Sundays. In 2013-ish I started a Valley craft beer group and had our 2nd outing there. More than being a group spot, I'll remember it as being a great place to talk. I’ve been there on more chill Fridays than I can count, at which point Edward and I either call it after 2 beers, or use it as a springboard to further hijinks.

It’s not the only bar I’ve ever visited by myself - being a business traveler, there's something you grow to love about sitting at the bar solo, eating dinner or enjoying a cocktail. I'm pretty sure it was the first bar I ever went to alone, though, and definitely the only one I've gone to alone in the last 5 years. The owners (a married couple) created a space where you could feel comfortable going by yourself, both from a social and a safety standpoint. The bartenders and patrons were all so friendly and cool. Since my preferred time to visit a bar tends to be at, like, 7pm (so I can be home early), I was sometimes the only customer and ended up getting into surprisingly real conversations with both owners.

For the last 4 or 5 years, it's felt like the closest thing I have to Cheers. It’s gonna be hard to get used to a life where if I’m bored on a Friday, I can’t go there.

After the new owners take it over and make it their own, I look forward to stopping by for a drink. It'll be different, and I hope I'll like it, and I'll always tip my glass to the place that was there before. And I'll pour some out for that place, anyone who ever poured me a pint, and all the wonderful times I had there.

My last pint - a Modern Times Black House.

My last pint - a Modern Times Black House.

Those cool kids stuck in the past.

I have loved Arcade Fire for 13 years. A lot has been written about this band, and even more has been tweeted and blogged and whispered snidely. I'm not really interested in that. I was a snob once, when I was younger. I must have been ashamed of my own tastes - ever a sucker for earnestness, swelling choruses, musical theater - and projected that on to other people who didn't like music that was "cool." I've gotten over that. I'm comfortable liking what I like, and letting other people do the same.

This isn't a music blog and I'm not a music critic, so who gives a hoot what my opinion is on the new album, the old album, their last tour, or what their whole "thing" is. All I can say is that this band has impacted my life in a lot of ways, not the least of which is their amazing live shows:

  • The Troubadour, 2005. I met up with a girl on livejournal to buy her spare ticket. I would later find out that my now-husband was at the same show, also alone.
  • The Greek, 2007.
  • Coachella 2007
  • The Shrine, 2010
  • Mountain View, 2011 (this was a festival set so barely counts, but still)
  • At the freakin' Capitol Records building for an NPR First Listen, 2013*
  • The Forum, 2014

*What??? Yeah, to this day I have no clue how we managed this. Edward had pre-ordered the album, and I guess they reached out to LA fans to get some audience members there. We were front row center and I had something of a conversation (I use that word very, very loosely) with Win Butler on-air.

Proof of the Capitol Studios show. We weren't actually allowed to take pictures once they started performing, so this will have to do.

Proof of the Capitol Studios show. We weren't actually allowed to take pictures once they started performing, so this will have to do.

So with memories of seeing them at Capitol Studios, Edward wisely opted to pre-order the Everything Now album as well - just in case, by some weird fluke in the universe, we would somehow benefit from it down the line.

Meanwhile, Arcade Fire has been executing a funny, meta, and extreme marketing campaign involving a fake corporate entity called Everything Now (hey, that's the name of the album!), similar to a conglomerate like Procter and Gamble or Unilever. Not everyone is in on the joke. I've been consistently fascinated (/flummoxed) by how many people really think that some huge company is signing them up for bizarre endorsement deals, placing fake news stories, and conducting weird marketing activities. I thought that everyone was skeptical and cynical of everything online these days, but maybe I've just been on Twitter too long.

People really thought that Arcade Fire were endorsing a cereal.

People really thought that Arcade Fire were endorsing a cereal.

ANYWAY - one of the weird marketing things "Everything Now Corp" did was conduct listening parties/ focus groups in LA, NYC, Berlin, London, and Paris. Three days before the album release date. Obviously, these were not meant to be real focus groups meant to inform the development of the album. I'm still not sure why they went through with them, other than to really commit to the ridiculousness of having a focus group for a rock album.

For some reason, we were chosen to participate and I was suspicious. I mean, what exactly *was* this event going to be? They made us sign an affidavit saying we wouldn't sue if we were kidnapped or injured. I felt like that was probably an over-the-top red herring to throw us off the scent. We were given an address for a new-money, new-to-LA Hollywood apartment building, and took the subway there on a Tuesday night. A skinny British guy in jeans and a sportcoat checked us off the list and invited us to take a seat in the posh lobby, where about 15 other quiet, nervous fans sat. I asked to no one in particular "...so does anyone know what this is?" No one answered.

Eventually we were brought up to the penthouse level and entered the Sonos Home, which was like the nicest hospitality suite I've ever been in, but hipper. 180 degree views of downtown, Arcade Fire playing on the Sonos, CoolHaus sandwiches, and a bar. It was also decked out in fake Everything Now posters and we were immediately introduced to our leader, an "Everything Now Corp" employee called Jamie.

I've never taken an improv class, but I know to accept the premise. Throughout the night there were a few references to the promotion for the album and the fake news that had permeated this album promotion. I asked if Tannis the social media intern of the "Everything Now Corp" would be there, and Jamie's eyes flashed with panic and she said "No, he's no longer with us."

Sweet badges.

Sweet badges.

Everyone spent the first hour or so knocking back cocktails and taking selfies on the balcony, then we got down to business and sat down to listen to the album and write our feedback. I think the biggest impact this event had on me was making me want to buy a Sonos - man, it sounded good on those multi-room speakers.

Everything Now. 

Everything Now. 

I'll be honest - I am not sure how seriously others were taking it, but there were a few hints that this was a purely theatrical activity, like Jamie encouraging us to write less and draw pictures because her boss at "Everything Now Corp" was illiterate. For every song, I wrote what commercial I'd want to see it in. I said that one song sounded like a Black Keys b-side. Edward didn't take the activity very seriously either and took the opportunity to go off on non sequiturs based on the song titles. The group listened to the whole thing, taking a break at the mid point, and then handed in our pages to the skinny British guy at the end. One group shot with our Everything Now hats - "for corporate's social media," Jamie said - and we were all done, making plans to all wear our hats to the Forum show so we'd recognize each other. (Maybe the band is planning to merchandise it, in which case I guess that wouldn't work.)

I know there are gonna be a lot of thinkpieces about the new album and the band in general. There already are. I haven't listened to the album again yet and haven't really formed my thoughts on it. All I know is that from the penthouse, on the Sonos, with a gin and tonic and the sun setting over Los Angeles? It sounded great.

From Twitter's JaimeFinkel

From Twitter's JaimeFinkel

Happenings as of late.

I've been trying to level up my weekend game recently. My weekends have traditionally been a healthy mix of adventuring around town, errands/chores, and purposeful downtime, the latter of which usually happens on Sunday. Lately I've been embracing the "Sunday Funday" ideology - I get the most out of weekends when I have fun stuff going on both days. Some things I've been up to in the past few weeks:

Smorgasburg and the super-secret killer view from the 9th floor of the parking structure.

Smorgasburg and the super-secret killer view from the 9th floor of the parking structure.

The new Shaq statue at Staples

The new Shaq statue at Staples

The beautiful Japanese Garden at Lake Balboa

The beautiful Japanese Garden at Lake Balboa

Testing out a new wide angle lens at the Japanese Garden

Testing out a new wide angle lens at the Japanese Garden

A day in Glendale (Neon Museum)

A day in Glendale (Neon Museum)

Longest time I've ever spent at the Americana

Longest time I've ever spent at the Americana

Korean Friendship Bell, San Pedro

Korean Friendship Bell, San Pedro

Crafted at the Port of Los Angeles

Crafted at the Port of Los Angeles

The Griffith Observatory

The Griffith Observatory

Hometown dog at the newly reopened Los Angeles State Historic Park

Hometown dog at the newly reopened Los Angeles State Historic Park

Work party in San Antonio (Tower of the Americas)

Work party in San Antonio (Tower of the Americas)

Dream Birthday

Gotta love when your birthday falls on a weekend.

Friday: Family dinner. Growing up, I had a pretty predictable birthday menu of fried chicken, sides from Rattlers (the local BBQ joint), and chocolate cake. Recent years have included meals out, brunch foods, Philippe's during Chinese New Year, but this year I felt like going back to basics. We got tri tip and sides from Rattlers and my mom made the amazing chocolate layer cake with cream cheese frosting. Some things are classic for a reason.

That E.T. has been on every birthday cake I've had for probably 27 years.

That E.T. has been on every birthday cake I've had for probably 27 years.

Saturday: My actual birthday. I'd been compiling a list of "dream birthday" activities and it included brunch, the planetarium, and trying a scallion pancake for the first time. The day was cloudy with patches of sunlight, but I decided that the planetarium and observatory would be best on a beautiful day so we skipped it. We placed an online order for Home State, walked past the long line, and took the bounty next door to Bar Covell. It was our first time trying the breakfast tacos at Home State and they were outstanding, though heavy on the egg. We hung out at Covell for a fair bit then stopped into Wacko, and bought a cute seahorse jewelry holder. We headed down the block to the Silver Lake farmers market, browsed Barkeeper and bought some mixers (and got samples from the nice proprietor), and finally had a scallion pancake from Pine and Crane. Then we ran a couple of errands, went home and chilled before dinner.

Edward gave me my gift before we headed out. I was pleased to see a jewelry box from Blue Nile and open up a beautiful amethyst necklace. Giving "the wife" jewelry for her birthday may seem cliche to some, but this was actually the first piece of jewelry he'd given me (besides the engagement ring)... or that anyone had given me, now that I think about it. I was just never a jewelry person, other than as a very little girl, like in elementary school. I remember being obsessed with my mood ring, getting a purple stone ring from a gumball machine on the Monterey pier, buying costume jewelry from Claire's. But I guess I grew out of it. Never wore jewelry in high school, college, or adulthood. My grandma (who passed away a couple of years ago) wanted to get me a birthstone ring as a college graduation present, but I was incredibly uncomfortable with someone spending that kind of money on me when I wouldn't even use the gift. The possibility that I could one day be someone who *did* wear jewelry - or even that I would treasure a gift like that forever - didn't really cross my mind.

It wasn't until we started going engagement ring shopping and I spent a lot of time on jewelry websites that I caught the jewelry bug. Now I notice and appreciate jewelry on others and have ideas for pieces I want someday (or sooner).

So, with my new amethyst necklace in tow, we headed to dinner at... The Bazaar. Hooooooboy.

What do you say about a place so iconic? Nothing that hasn't been said, but some experiences are worth paying for once. The restaurant was much louder and trendier than I'd imagined, especially at our table (one of the few non-communal tables, which had this neon Tron-esque pattern on the tabletop). Some of the highlights:

  • The deconstructed olives, which exploded with olive juice flavor
  • The caviar cone and foie gras lollipop. These are arguably iconic Bazaar items and are both $18 for 2 bites of food (1 bite for each person).
  • The cocktail cart (Edward ordered a caipirinha, which came with tableside presentation)
  • The croquettes, served in a glass shoe for some reason. We eventually realized that the reason no one was taking the shoe away was that there was a last croquette in the shoe which we'd missed.

It was a great dinner and I'm so glad I've finally gone.

The olives.

The olives.

The Croquettes in a shoe.

The Croquettes in a shoe.

It's this dude's job to go around and make cocktails with liquid nitrogen.

It's this dude's job to go around and make cocktails with liquid nitrogen.

Sunday: I had a few people over for brunch - something I'd been wanting to do for ages. It's nice to have something going on in the daytime and still have enough time to do things later. I made a hashbrown egg bake, tons of bacon, fruit, canned cinnamon rolls, and a mimosa bar with a variety of juices from Trader Joes. I discovered that champagne with lemonade is like a simplified version of a French 75!

Fwiends

Fwiends

Vegas, baby. Vegas.

 
Ever since I left the city (center)

I like a to go to Vegas once a year - no more, no less. Vegas is one of those places that you're always super excited to visit, but even more desperate to leave. The days go so quickly - especially in the winter - and the nights are endless. It's freezing in the winter but things are still busy. But it is a great place to be if you're into the excess - which I am, but only in moderation. Plus we got a wicked Black Friday deal for the Cosmo. What could we do.

I don't feel like doing a full-on recap of everything. Days tend to blend together in Vegas - eat, drink, lose your money. Take a taxi somewhere. See the Bellagio fountains. Some highlights are as follows:

  • Absinthe at Caesar's Palace: holy WOW this show is great. Hilarious in a way most Vegas shows are not, great talent, big variety of acts. Ask me more about this one in person.
  • The High Roller: the world's largest observational wheel (for now anyway) was fun with a bar in the pod and a bunch of nice people who wanted to watch the sun go down. My only complaint is that it was too short - a full rotation is 30 minutes, and I could have easily done another go-round.
  • Regular Vegas stuff: certain things you always want to see - the Bellagio arboretum/fountains, the Eiffel tower, the Linq. And new to this visit: The Park at New York New York, an outdoor space not unlike LA Live or the Grove. They have some nice public art and a lot of potential.
  • Food & drink: we didn't bother with any special/fancy restaurants this time, though Vegas is a great city to do that if you so choose. We had Eggslut breakfast sandwiches both mornings, Secret Pizza, Jose Andres's Jaleo, and went to a place called Beer Park which would be super fun on a warmer evening. We'll have to go back and experience it at its full potential. As always, we enjoyed the Chandelier Bar at the Cosmo.  Gorgeous as well as inventive drinks.
Actually, who are you not to be. Bliss Dance by Marco Cochrane.

Actually, who are you not to be. Bliss Dance by Marco Cochrane.

Snaps from Day 1

Snaps from Day 2

Merry Christmas, Merry Christmas. Couldn't miss this one this year.

"LA doesn't have seasons" is a catchphrase trotted out by New Yorkers and recent transplants. Of course we have seasons - I can tell by how cold and windy it's been for the last couple of weeks. Christmas in LA is a special kind of west coast magic, exemplified best by the opening scene of Almost Famous. Though the scene is set in San Diego, I've had a number of beach Christmases or holidays that felt unseasonably warm. The subtext of the "LA doesn't have seasons" bemoaning is "... the same as the place as I grew up." Well, LA is where *I* grew up, so I notice and welcome the season.

I typically am not a major holiday fiend - I get the urge to listen to Christmas music about 2 days before Christmas, and even then it's usually this new-wave classic by The Waitresses about late-breaking holiday spirit. It speaks so well to how it feels to do the holidays as an adult - the rushing, the frenzy to buy gifts, send cards, prepare food, scurry off to various holiday gatherings, see people - and how overwhelming it can be. I am someone who loves rituals, but as I get older the energy expended on Christmas seems less worth it. But still. I participate. Especially this year. LA makes it easy, because you can absorb the season without even doing so intentionally.

First - and this was definitely not intentionally a holiday celebration - Hedwig and the Angry Inch at the Pantages. Shake Shack before the show. It was a fantastic night - and I snapped this picture as we emerged from the subway:

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Last weekend my BFF and I went to partake in a cool new offering at Descanso Garden called Enchanted: Forest of Light. I hadn't been to Descanso since I was, like, 11 but when my friend and I found ourselves wanting to do something festive, it was between this and the LA Zoo lights. Tons of bad reviews of the LA Zoo experience led us to pick Descanso, even though it was pretty expensive at $28. However, it was a unique and enjoyable experience - very pleasant and not too crowded. Maybe we'll even go next year!

The first exhibit.

The first exhibit.

A snap I snapped.

I wanted to do a proper downtown celebration so Edward and I picked last Saturday night to go downtown and check out various holiday decorations. We started in Pershing Square and grabbed some drinks from Starbucks - I had a giftcard, and something about the holidays makes me want a peppermint mocha. We spent some time at Pershing which was decorated with a lot of beautiful lights (plus their seasonal ice rink), then went to the Millennium Biltmore. Their hotel lobby/tea room on a normal day is gorgeous, and of course the Christmas decorations were on fleek. We headed past the Library Tower on the escalator, past the Broad, and ended up at the music center. By this time, we were getting hungry and decided to walk to Chinatown (through Grand Park). We grabbed a drink at the beautiful General Lee's bar (I'd been a couple of times, but only during Chinese New Year during the day - it's amazing either way) and then ambled over the Chego to share the hen house bowl and ooey gooey fries. Then we walked to Union Station and caught the train home. It was a seriously great evening and we saw so many great holiday decorations.

The Library Tower through the string lights

The Library Tower through the string lights

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Union Station

Union Station

Finally, my whole family partook in a fun boat outing on Alamitos Bay in Long Beach. We've done this a few times and it's always so fun to pack a picnic and cruise around the bay and in the Naples canal. It never lasts long enough, though.

IMG_6489.JPG

Merry Christmas, Merry Christmas. Couldn't miss this one this year.

Taste Talks Los Angeles

We were lucky enough to score Kitchen Sink passes for the inagural Taste Talks event in Los Angeles. Held at a number of cool spots throughout the city, this multi-day event brings together chefs, restaurateurs, writers, and food enthusiasts to talk about the city's food scene and where it's headed. There were also various tastings and parties, some of which we got to attend. 

The main event, the conference, began Saturday morning at the Line Hotel. We enjoyed a breakfast burrito and glass of rosé, then settled in for the first talk: "Can the restaurant industry survive the new economy?" Evan Kleiman moderated a panel of chefs and restaurant owners who were open with us about the challenges they face trying to make money in the restaurant industry - one chef even said she opened a fast-casual restaurant because it's more profitable (less service) and it funds her kid's private school tuition. When that talk was over, we went to a couple of other panels, one on female chefs and one on writing about the Los Angeles food scene. The one on female chefs was held in the secret bar Break Room 86, which is probably the coolest place for a conference talk that I've ever seen. Usually when I'm at conferences, I'm staffing a booth, so it was really nice to be able to go to a conference as an attendee.

The next day was the All-Star BBQ at Mack Sennett. We showed up to the early session and enjoyed some great food samples (not all BBQ) and Don Julio cocktails. That night, we went back to Mack Sennett for the closing party, where there was more food (Indian from Badmaash and pizza from Delicious Pizza!) and a pretty good party atmosphere.

Break Room '86

Break Room '86

"But the Food Sucks! Covering the Los Angeles food scene from the perspective of a local" panel.

"But the Food Sucks! Covering the Los Angeles food scene from the perspective of a local" panel.

Dante's Fried Chicken. My favorite dish of the day. I had 2. Shhhh.

Dante's Fried Chicken. My favorite dish of the day. I had 2. Shhhh.

Deconstructed pork Haitian style

Deconstructed pork Haitian style